Use Timkin. Only Timkin. Get them from anywhere but again, only Timkin. All the rest will fail prematurely as has been proven time and time again.

Gday All,
Was looking at getting a replacement front wheel bearing as 1 is starting to show signs of play. Went online both here and UK and was amazed at the price variations in both places. From less than $100 up to $500 for L/R product. Will likely do both together and keep the old good 1 as a spare as they are not readily available where I live.
I use a lot of bearing with my job , and in the old days Timkin was the be all and end all , but they see to have been caught up to by a few other brands from my observations , so that being said,I am interested in what people have found and what seems to be the best of the bunch.
Are people sticking with the top priced stuff or are the cheaper versions hanging in.
The car is a 2008 D3 that does mostly mums taxi but a few times a year does offroading trips. Plan on doing a run to perth and back later this year so likely great central road , then home thru the Kimberley to give you an idea on what it will be used for.
Thanks Bulletman
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberUse Timkin. Only Timkin. Get them from anywhere but again, only Timkin. All the rest will fail prematurely as has been proven time and time again.

2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
 Wizard
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SubscriberAt about 180000kms on the RRS I thought I'd pre-emptively replace the front bearings, went with quality aftermarket ones and proceeded to have two fail inside 30000kms.
I don't know other's thoughts and experiences but it seems to me to be one you can't skimp on
Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						Be aware that the current LR part number appears to include the 4 mounting bolts and the axle nut whereas the Timken bearing sold under either the old LR number that only includes the nut or the new number that also includes the bolts is only for the bearing. A new nut should normally be fitted and therefore ordered at the same time but the old bolts can be re-used if new thread-locker is applied.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Ok, so here's my take.
I've replaced alot of beraings in my time. There's is a view that Timkin are the best, dont get anything but Timkin, etc etc.
I am not with this opinon, and I can tell you, that bearing manufacturing has come a long long way.
I've also read that if you go with a different brand, you will be replacing your bearings once a year. Well even if, the numbers are in favour of not getting Timkins.
They are absurdley overpriced.
New Front Wheel Bearing Hub for Landrover Discovery 3&4,Sport L320,Vogue TDV8&V8 | eBay
This is what I bought $127 dollars. From a bearing shop. These are really top quality.
Timkins are $400aud.
Even if you had to replacethem every year, thats 3 years worth of bearings. (but they will last alot longer than that)
Dont buy into the brand hype - but at the endofthe day, do whatever you feel most comfortable with. I do all my own maintenance, so its no hassle.
Cheers
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberYeah. Replace them once every ten years or annually? I’ll stick with Timkin and know they won’t fail on me when I’m in the middle of nowhere.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I'm not sure about that annual figure - or who came up with it to be honest!
There are some quality bearings made way up north and then there is some absolute ****e, i will stick to Timken/Nachi/Koyo/SKF where possible. My dad was after wheel bearings for 1920's Dodges which are now scarce even in the US, had some made in China and they are excellent - he's been in bearing business for over 50 years starting out as an engineer.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Where they are made isn't the issue it's the steel, the grinding, the hardening process, quality control etc.
Timken manufacture in China as do most , if not all, the big names.
Most bearings fail due to water ingress, incorrect lubrication, poor fitment or ultimately wear. Just because it's a well known name doesn't exempt the bearing from this.
Sticking with one brand is great loyalty but I feel it's misplaced. If you only use Timken how would you know how other bearings perform ?
In fact how often do you hear of bearings failing outside of the factors mentioned above ?
I've used 'Chinese' bearings without any issues and also Indian (no-name) wheel bearings. Wherever possible I'd use a known name but sometimes you have no choice.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
I found a pair of front hubs with timken bearings for just under $500. Should be good for another 150k km. Unless you are happy to risk the time and inconvenience of changing them i would stick with timken.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks