If the car senses brake pedal application it brakes over accelerating. This is why a fault brake switch stuck on or lagging can see the car practically immobile.
If the car senses brake pedal application it brakes over accelerating. This is why a fault brake switch stuck on or lagging can see the car practically immobile.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Might be a silly question, but has the transmission been serviced and flushed recently?
Hi
I went through the service history no mention of transmission service just the usual things e.g. filters, oil,brake pads ,the joy of buying used cars i guess, the place where we brought the vehicle said they gave it a service, and they were kind enough to put the sticker on the window but not write anything in the book so even that is questionable. They also had two tyres fitted to the front of the car as they were scrubbed out but somehow passed a road worthy , i asked if they did a wheel alignment when they put the tyres on and no was the answer "good help is hard find" , got the car home one wheel nut missing on drivers side, went and check all the front wheel nuts and only two were locked down on each side the others finger tight. GOOD TIMES
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Yes, you've got to watch them. A relative had his Triton serviced by a dealer, and a day later there was a puddle of oil under it. The sump plug had not been tightened.
I don't know if the transmission has anything to do with your hesitation, but a flush and replacement of all oils in the vehicle could only be a good thing.
Hi mate,
I’m with you - that’s dangerous and shouldn’t be doing that. It’s a fault. Too many lovers in here not being subjective. It’s a fault true and simple.
So just a bit more information. When you start off in first (manual) does it do it? Does it do it in sport mode? Is it doing it every time or occasional / random? When you go to accelerate is the car at running temperature or cold?
Last edited by LRD414; 20th February 2020 at 11:51 AM. Reason: fixed quote
Following closely. Two types of hesitation here.
The normal one discussed at length here where anticipation and rolling on the pedal rather than stabbing it gets better results when turning across traffic. Seems worse after long downhill and the box is slow to shift down when you suddenly need power for the turn at the bottom. This is my daily commute so don’t even notice it anymore. Sport or paddle down are solutions if bothered.
The other is random when it shouldn’t, but so rare to not bother pursuing. One time when I had it in low range rock crawl on a steep incline after briefly lifting the foot rolling over a jumpup and it refused to respond to the following resumption of the climb. Feathering, gentle, stabbing, nothing for ten seconds then off like a scalded cat. Never did it again on other identical runs on that track in identical conditions. But has happened elsewhere randomly but rarely. Unsettling.
This is important to note. It's like the old "keep the revs up" rule. Based on my D4 low range experience, I would recommend ascending in manual mode (Command Shift or whatever they call it) and, in the situation above where you need to back off the throttle (unexpectedly), change down a gear or two at the same time (as you back off the throttle). Of course, you can do the same if you're in Drive as the car will be in a suitable gear for the climb anyway and will immediately respond to a touch or two on the paddle. That way, the lower revs will be matched with the lower gear and there'll be no hesitation whatsoever.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
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