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Thread: Is my 2.7 shagged?

  1. #1
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    Is my 2.7 shagged?

    I know it's probably hard to diagnose an engine fault over the internet without much confidence, but here goes...

    Basically it was running fine with about 230,000 kms on the clock. Previous owner was driving it and it starting making a horrible engine noise and stalled. They managed to restart it briefly before shutting it down. It's sat unused for about 6 months.

    Today, a mechanic (non-LR) tried to do a quick diagnosis. They managed to get it started after turning it over for about 10 seconds, but it sounded sick (a bit of a knocking and scraping sound and not idling right at all) . Had his foot to the floor, but before too long it stalled. I wasn't too keen on starting it at all, so didn't try again. I thought the fact that it actually did start might be promising, but as per my typical motto, "expect the worst and hope for the best". So, I'm expecting the motor's shagged and needs replacing.

    Apparently 2 common failures are the oil pump/timing belt or broken crankshaft. Would either of these allow it to still start? Anyone game to have a stab at likely problem/s, and repair options/costs? At best this might see the road again, at worst it will be broken and parts sold (or sold as is) to try and recover some costs.

    Finally, any decent mobile mechanics Brisbane north side that would be able to come and have a gander?

  2. #2
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    I would have thought if the pulley had snapped off the oil pump then the engine would not have re-started as the belt wouldn't be able to drive anything. I would assume seeing as it started, albeit only briefly that you have possibly got a broken crankshaft . I seen a V12 MTU run very roughly mind you , but still ran , with a broken crankshaft which had some very good mechanics scratching their head until they dropped the sump .

    Either way it doesn't sound good and you are likely putting a territory engine in it as a guess..

    hope you didn't pay top $$ for it.

    Bulletman

  3. #3
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    remove the timing belt cover and have a look

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulletman View Post
    Either way it doesn't sound good and you are likely putting a territory engine in it as a guess..

    hope you didn't pay top $$ for it.

    Bulletman
    I think I got it at the right price - probably equivalent to what I can sell the aftermarket accessories for. I would rather get it running again, but given it's the EU3 spec, I'm not sure if the common Territory motors are a straight swap.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulletman View Post
    I would have thought if the pulley had snapped off the oil pump then the engine would not have re-started as the belt wouldn't be able to drive anything. I would assume seeing as it started, albeit only briefly that you have possibly got a broken crankshaft . I seen a V12 MTU run very roughly mind you , but still ran , with a broken crankshaft which had some very good mechanics scratching their head until they dropped the sump .

    Either way it doesn't sound good and you are likely putting a territory engine in it as a guess..

    hope you didn't pay top $$ for it.

    Bulletman
    I wont be a snapped crank - if it was broken then you wouldnt be getting any drive to the front of the crank which in turn would not turn the front timing belt pulley = no camshaft or high pressure fuel pump movment.
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanegtr View Post
    I wont be a snapped crank - if it was broken then you wouldnt be getting any drive to the front of the crank which in turn would not turn the front timing belt pulley = no camshaft or high pressure fuel pump movment.
    That was my comment re the V12 ,the crank snapped clean and once 1 cylinder fired the engine managed to run albeit very badly , admittedly has double the amount of cylenders, but using the same principle , if 1 cylinder fired on the TDV6 , with the timing belt still fitted then it may possibly be why they could get it to run for 10 secs.

    All assumptions of course , but was more thinking that the timing belt must still be connected as the engine did fire. only way to be sure is a lot more investigation.

    Bulletman

  7. #7
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    Initial thoughts would be the crank - the front could in theory still fire however it could be a myriad of things.

    Drop the sump and check.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
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    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
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    My reply to a post in my other thread. Probably best I keep it all in this one, as the other one refers to an engine swap (which may or may not be an option).

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    The symptoms described cover a list of things but there are basic things you can check.

    You say the mechanic started and it ran for ten seconds.
    What warning lights were up? Oil pressure???
    Unfortunately the mechanic didn't tell me.

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    What engine codes are stored that might help?
    After I charge the battery (or get a replacement) I can plug in the HawkEye that came with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Can you turn the engine by hand if you place it in neutral? It’ll be stiff but doable if it turns. Use a breaker bar on the crank nut turning clockwise.
    Finally managed to get the fan off. All pulleys turn freely. The crankshaft pulley can turn with some effort (I'm only a little guy!), but I hear a bit of a rattling noise.

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    As mentioned, rip the oil filter cover off and check the filter. Look for a “crushed nipple”. It might indicate the cause.
    If I take the filter off before draining the sump, will oil spill everywhere? I'm yet to jack it up so I can fit under there (air bags are empty).

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    I don’t believe it’s a snapped crank as the rear is where it’s started from and the front drives the cams, so a disconnect between the two would result in no start. Worn/spun bearings on the crank due to low oil flow would give the symptoms you describe. If you can’t turn it over then I’d go with bearings bonded to the crank.

    The oil pump supports the timing belt tensioner and are known to fail but again, this drops the timing belt so the engine shouldn’t run.

    It could be a simpler issue, but without hearing it and doing the above basics, can’t help further.

  9. #9
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    Is my 2.7 shagged?

    You can take the filter off after about 5 minutes of the engine running. It drains back and empties to the sump mostly. I can tell you about opening it within 30 seconds of turning off and it’s not pretty!!!!! Is my 2.7 shagged?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranga View Post

    If I take the filter off before draining the sump, will oil spill everywhere? I'm yet to jack it up so I can fit under there (air bags are empty).
    You don't need to get under to take the oil filter off, it lives in the valley.

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