Thread: Emergency air up instructions

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

No, you can safely remove/replace the compressor assembly without losing any air pressure elsewhere in the system. From the manual: "The front and rear valve blocks and the reservoir valve block are normally closed when de-energized, preventing air pressure in the air springs and the reservoir escaping when the unit is disconnected." This is a really neat feature and must be considered when looking at an emergency supply (other than Gordon's which you describe well).
What also must be considered is that the air reservoir only has one one line for input and output. If the reservoir had a separate input port (like the series and P38 ones did) then keeping it pressurised to 244psi would be simply a matter of connecting a suitable compressor feed to the input port (via a non-return valve). You would then clear the fault codes pertaining to the failed compressor and the EAS computer would be none the wiser as it would not need to send a signal to it to operate as there would always be enough pressure in the rest of the system.
There will be a way to do this, I just haven't figured it out yet. But I agree that Gordon's is a clever and simple system that not only covers all EAS system failures, it also covers a damaged airbag as the car will still be driveable (well, slowly moveable) on three airbags. Probably.

you could put a T with Schrader valve between the tank and valve block, you are introducing a another point of failure but is most convenient
obviously shouldnt cut it while pressurised, still rest of system has to be working other than pump. but can just carry spare pump instead

different option would be to just disconnect pump outlet tube and put Schrader valve on end for temp fix or put T in for permanent, but this way must have electrovalve operating for air to get in or out of tank

both ways would bring moisture in, but so does just pumping a bag directly

as mentioned you could use gap tool to operate valve blocks manually, assuming they still work.

currently im thinking to start by just getting a few connectors to keep in the car permanently (a T-piece, schrader valve, sharp blade, a few joiners, a few meters of 6mm tube), and keeping a spare cheap pump at home and to take on any big trips.

anyway i really just wanted to share these informative details from the manual to help you understand the system to decide what if anything you can fix / prepare for.

Originally Posted by haydent

currently im thinking to start by just getting a few connectors to keep in the car permanently (a T-piece, schrader valve, sharp blade, a few joiners, a few meters of 6mm tube), and keeping a spare cheap pump at home and to take on any big trips.

Green Oval made up a couple of emergency kits for front and rear.

I have them on file but they are colour pix in the order of 10K size so can't post them here in reply.

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Green Oval made up a couple of emergency kits for front and rear.

I have them on file but they are colour pix in the order of 10K size so can't post them here in reply.

See post #4 in this thread.

Wouldn't hurt to post it again

Bit of a necro, but I've been looking into this for a while. The original VOSS connectors have a parallel thread and O-ring seal. I replaced all the O-rings when I did the valve blocks a couple of years ago.

These : 3101 06 60 | Legris LF3000 Series Straight Threaded Adaptor, M10 Male to Push In 6 mm, Threaded-to-Tube Connection Style | RS have an M10x1 thread with O-ring seal and are rated to 20 bar.

They've also got joiners : https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/pneum...ttings/2595151 rated to 18 bar.

Lots of speculation on thread size. I note the GOE instructions refer to BSPP threads, and as noted above a G1/8 thread isn't far off an M10x1. The VOSS 203 catalog for that specific connector only lists Metric threads with an O-ring seal (https://voss.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceansp...330&focal=none). There are 2 adapters in the series that have a NPT or G1/8 thread, but not in that style (small with collet).

From that I assume it has to be an M10x1 connector, but due to the configuration of the connector used it needs to use the external O-ring as a seal.

I'm only looking for connectors that are 17+ Bar rated, and they're a bit more $$ than the generic Parker stuff you find in the corner shop.

Originally Posted by haydent

while likely true for the motor itself, the real benefit is in having the whole thing with all the other bits, as drying canisters have been known to split apart, also you could destroy a piston or other part in one shot...

welp it happened ... im out in a national park near broken hill and somethings gone wrong with the compressor, runs, but not making any pressure, gets very hot and doesnt sound good, im guessing its snapped a piston rod or something. (cheap $250 ebay pump)

I wish id brought my spare pump, as normally no point carrying it around in car, but with room in van i could have done it.

Also i should have actually tested out my backup system when at home ... Im pretty confident i can pump the car up , the main unknown is if my pump can do enough pressure for the 3t van on the back as well ....

Currently 180psi in the tank, so not wasting that and will wait until lower and cant level before trying anything, my ryobi battery powered pump does 140 psi, (rated to 160psi but the bike valve style connector on the end leaks too much to get above 140)

Investigated the GAP tool , and it lets you 'test the valves' section which lets air from the tank to either the front or rear corners even though the pump is not running and there is a yellow error code. Which is good news for only having to tap into the system in one place near the tank/pump rather than each corner.

Originally Posted by haydent

welp it happened ... im out in a national park near broken hill and somethings gone wrong with the compressor, runs, but not making any pressure, gets very hot and doesnt sound good, im guessing its snapped a piston rod or something. (cheap $250 ebay pump)

I wish id brought my spare pump, as normally no point carrying it around in car, but with room in van i could have done it.

Also i should have actually tested out my backup system when at home ... Im pretty confident i can pump the car up , the main unknown is if my pump can do enough pressure for the 3t van on the back as well ....

Currently 180psi in the tank, so not wasting that and will wait until lower and cant level before trying anything, my ryobi battery powered pump does 140 psi, (rated to 160psi but the bike valve style connector on the end leaks too much to get above 140)

Investigated the GAP tool , and it lets you 'test the valves' section which lets air from the tank to either the front or rear corners even though the pump is not running and there is a yellow error code. Which is good news for only having to tap into the system in one place near the tank/pump rather than each corner.

Jack the rear up so that the pump doesnt need to work as hard, could also unhitch the van or use the jockey wheel to take some load off.
If you can raise it normal height pull the fuse for self levelling and remove the compressor relay.

Originally Posted by haydent

welp it happened ... im out in a national park near broken hill and somethings gone wrong with the compressor, runs, but not making any pressure, gets very hot and doesnt sound good, im guessing its snapped a piston rod or something. (cheap $250 ebay pump)

I wish id brought my spare pump, as normally no point carrying it around in car, but with room in van i could have done it.

Also i should have actually tested out my backup system when at home ... Im pretty confident i can pump the car up , the main unknown is if my pump can do enough pressure for the 3t van on the back as well ....

Currently 180psi in the tank, so not wasting that and will wait until lower and cant level before trying anything, my ryobi battery powered pump does 140 psi, (rated to 160psi but the bike valve style connector on the end leaks too much to get above 140)

Investigated the GAP tool , and it lets you 'test the valves' section which lets air from the tank to either the front or rear corners even though the pump is not running and there is a yellow error code. Which is good news for only having to tap into the system in one place near the tank/pump rather than each corner.

Maybe a lesson learned that for a critical component, Chinese eBay replicas are not the best idea.