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Thread: LR4 Smart Key Not Found, No Power on Centre Console, A/C, Dash, Speedo, Tacho

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SH, Perth, WA
    Posts
    15

    LR4 Smart Key Not Found, No Power on Centre Console, A/C, Dash, Speedo, Tacho

    Good day all. I’m new to the forum but I've been browsing and learning from your very helpful and knowledgeable insights for years. Thank you very much for that.

    I have been searching the internet for many days now. I saw some similar threads about this issue here but so far, I didn't find a solution that worked for me so I decided to post a new thread. I need your help and inputs, please.

    My 2009 MY10 Land Rover Discovery 4 3.0D is showing the dreaded “Smart Key Not Found” in the info centre and cannot be started normally. The fault has since worsened to having no power on the centre console (touchscreen), A/C (Climate control), dashboard (is blackout, no LR4 image), speedometer and tachometer are not working. Headlights and cabin lights remained working.

    I can still start it when I place the key FOB in the right spot under the steering column. When the engine is running, headlights, signal lights, wiper, power windows and power door locks all work. The battery is only a year old and is confirmed healthy with 12.6 Volts.

    This car has only done 55K Kms. Very well kept, it’s always parked inside my garage and has never been off-road. I have not washed it recently, it has no sunroof, did not wade into waters, not been rain soaked so it’s all “dry” and therefore, has not much water-ingress probability. I have no rear a/c unit that might cramp/press any medium speed CAN bus wires at the back.

    Here are what I have tried so far with no success:


    • Pulled out, check/confirmed healthy and put back passenger compartment fuses 17, 37, 61, 62, 68. I have not pulled out any fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.
    • Disconnected positive (+) cable of battery then reconnected after 2 minutes
    • Disconnected and shorted the battery leads for + 10 minutes to drain residual charge and “reset” car computer system
    • Disconnected the battery for more than an hour, reconnected
    • Cleaned and tightened the earth (ground) wire behind the front cabin lights
    • Wiggled and arranged wire looms in battery bay, nothing out of the ordinary there
    • Lock/unlock the car using the steel blade key in the FOB. Only the left front door (where the keyhole is) locks. All the other doors stay open meaning power door locks are not working when the engine is not running
    • Started and stopped the engine a number of times placing the key fob under the steering column


    I don’t know what else to try for. The dealership is 60 Kms. away. I’d like to have the dashboard and central console working again before I go there so I can drive safely with functioning speedometer, tachometer, indicator lights, info centre, etc. I understand I can use my phone’s GPS app as an alternate speedometer.

    Any help, inputs, tips, advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Brisbane some of the time
    Posts
    9,404
    Sorry i can't help with the issue,but going to the dealer will certainly a very expensive exercise.

    I would try a good local Indie.

    Good luck.
    paul

    D4 MY12 white,2.7(with a few more killer wasps) rear air,e diff,xenons,arb bar,7 seat ,18" bfg KO2

    2009 Defender 110 (son's)ARB
    bar,snorkle,rocksliders,rack,KM3's,BAS chip

    '56 S1,been in the family since...'56

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda: Perth
    Posts
    3,363
    Give Autocode a ring and have a talk with them over the phone. I'd go there for D4 electrical / ecu problems before a dealer.
    2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Ocean Reef WA
    Posts
    2,570
    Give Darren at Aztech4x4 a ring or Dave Dover at Dovers Rovers and one of them if not both will give you good advice.
    Cheers.
    AlanH.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SH, Perth, WA
    Posts
    15
    Thanks, Ferret and AllanH. I'll do that.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW South West Slopes
    Posts
    9,938
    When was the battery 12.6V - eg ignition off or engine running?
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SH, Perth, WA
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    When was the battery 12.6V - eg ignition off or engine running?
    Hi Graeme. I measured the voltage in the battery again and it's 12.9V when ignition is off and 14.7V when engine is running. The car starts easily when I place the smart key in the raised ridges under the steering column, no problem.

    I can drive it but I cannot lock the doors when I park as the blade key only locks the front left door which has the keyhole.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    408
    Try your second key or change the battery in the key fob?
    Rod

    D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, D697, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, Outback Accessories Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Rhino Roof Bars & Platform rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SH, Perth, WA
    Posts
    15
    Hi Rod. Yup, I've done that. Replaced both key fob batteries with new CR2032 but still showing Smart Key Not Found.

    I'll have another go in looking for any short circuiting wire to ground/earth.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW South West Slopes
    Posts
    9,938
    Do you have another vehicle and jumper leads so that you can raise your battery voltage without your engine running to see if the higher voltage makes any difference?

    Do you have a volt-meter to check voltages at fuses for the affected components to see if its a positive supply problem or an earth problem?

    I suspect a poor earth somewhere, perhaps at one of the earth bolts behind the covers at the base of the A pillars. Those covers are readily removed - pull the door seal away, lift the tread plate, on the driver's side remove the panel above the pedals then slide the panel rearwards.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

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