Then you can make heaps of room and save about 100Kg of weight by removing the third row seats and two of the second row seats. Or just one if there's a chance of needing to cater for another passenger. Many here locate their 40L or so fridge in the middle second row seat spot. Gives junior something to manage!Quote:
Originally Posted by dukemasterpro
Our RTT sits on two Rhino roof bars that are on the vehicle all the time,on the higher roof section of the D4,using the shortest legs.
With the Foxwing Awning up there it sits around 20KG over the limit,but we have never had an issue.
Just a note,don't ever fit a Rhino bar to the lower section of roof,the wind noise won't take long to drive you crazy.On the higher roof section there is no noise at all.
not forgetting the load on your rear axle - it’s often the first to reach its limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by dukemasterpro
You might also like to have a look at the Gordigear RTT. They are at Southport Qld and sell worldwide. The Explorer Plus (165cm wide model) on your Vortex roof bars, open to the drivers side. Your shovel can mount to the drivers side of the bars and won’t be in the way. I’ve got that setup and it would sleep three of you easily. Fantastic quality product and very good to deal with. Spare parts if needed are readily available.
David
Middle seat might help, the little guy has a thing about having company in the back at times though he might just geta bit more iPad time to kill some of the time just for this trip.Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselLSE
I've seen pics of front runner tanks strapped to the seats in lieu of tie downs, whats it like to do that minus the seat itself?
I made a platform to go in place of second row seats. You could make one that goes in place of just two seats. Then water bladder or tank under platform and other things on top. Each seat is between 20-25kg and my platform that went in place of all three weighed 10kg.
Scott
My 2014 D4 came second hand with LR crossbars running in the short track LR roof rails. Although I could fit a RTT and a Darche 270 awning to them, I felt it was an accident waiting to happen as I always remove them by myself between camping trips.
Thinking platforms, I quickly discounted the Rhino version due to their north south orientation and the Front Runner version due to their perimeter rails being raised compared to the top of their platform bars. This left the Yakima brand.
Talking with a Yakima rep at the 4WD Show in 2019, he advised that if I wanted to go full length with their platform E (1235x2130) then I could marry their platform to Rhino's Backbone rails as Yakima didn't have mounts to match the stepped roof profile of the D4. Although he assured me that the two simply bolted together, all the local suppliers were quite adamant that they wouldn't and I would have to drill or cut something which would void any warranty. Not being overly bothered about that, I bit the bullet and bought the two systems and low and behold, they simply bolted together like the Yakima rep had said!!! Installation was simple...
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To make the loading of the RTT very simple, I bought the Front Runner quick release brackets for their RTTs and platforms and the only mod I had to do was drill new bolt holes in the quick release brackets to match the spacing of the Yakima crossbars. The only issue I have with this setup is that it puts the RTT up higher than the original ladder was designed for but that is easily remedied via either modifying the existing ladder or swapping if for one of those telescoping ladders. I'm probably going to go with the latter as it gives more flexibility with sloping/uneven ground. In the mean time I simply adjust the cars ride height down.
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Finally I bought a 250L waterproof Ironman roof bag which fits perfectly in front of the RTT (see last picture). I use this to store the ground sheets, folding table and chairs. That pretty much takes up the entire platform and the total weight would be 57 (RTT) + 22 (awning) + ~15 (loaded bag) = 94kg so over the limit by nearly 20kg. Not great I know but I drive with care and everything is very well secured.
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Cheers :)
Following with interest. Have you made a call? I'm looking at adding a roof top tent to my D4 and a 270 awning (30 second or batwing). I already have 2 bars on the rear so could use that, could go a Rhino platform, or could go another route.
For tent I'm looking at a hard shell and keen to get something lightweight and relatively stylish - the iKamper seems like a good option.
I'm less concerned about $ and more about the looks and weight. I don't want a 'bodged' looking job done.
But I am concerned about GVM and roof weight. I'm already running 3x batteries, drawers, ARB bar, winch with dyneema, Kaymar rear bar and single wheel carrier, LRA long range tank, snorkel, cargo barrier, sometimes a shingleback bike rack and the usual electrical bits for towing, compressor, UHF etc. Add in 2 adults, 190L of fuel, fridge etc and I am a tad scared to look at the weight.
3rd row seats are gone, at least.
Good chance you will be over....Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexRS4
The only thing to do is put it on the scales,i would do it before investing in the tent.As i said,earlier in this thread,our roof load is often 20Kg over with no issues.
Mine doesn't have half those mods,and is very close to GVm when touring,and there is only two of us.
Although we do carry quite a bit of photography gear that is heavy,and often 3 rifles,and gear for them.Together these add a fair bit of weight.We also usually carry one jerry of fuel.ANd all the usual camping gear,water,tools,etc.
Definitely remove as many seats as possible to save weight.
Re drawers, consider ordering a short drawer to leave space behind it under the floor, where a battery or water container can be hidden out of sight, getting the weight down low.
I saw a D3 with a compact ARB rooftop tent that looked both light and functional a while back, but I don't have details. Maybe on the ARB website.
A solar battery charger can be sat inside the vehicle on the dashboard.
Nearly! Fridge and slide showed up this week along with the Tuffant winder so the outfitting can begin.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexRS4
The payload weight of 745kg is pretty average once you add back all the touring essentials and passengers. My thoughts on what I choose are now being influenced by keeping within the roof and payload limits whilst still being comfortable.
2nd row seats will have to stay, smaller tent than 100% ideal etc. Everything's a compromise, perhaps ignorance of weight was a bliss and fine if with all the additional weight everything goes well.
Dropping the vehicle off later this week after I get the 72 month service done ( few months ahead of time ) and will discuss the guys doing the install and other bits ( extra anderson off the rear traxide , tuffant winder, UHF / Antenna install - cheers LRD414 for the great how-to pics exactly what I want )
RTT Feldon Crows Nest regular as its lower weight 54vs 58kg, cost, setup time. Not sure the covered entrance on the Extended tent is 100% worth it and already have an awning room for the ARB awning.
The Vortex bars that were gathering dust in the garage are now back on the roof ( using same Rhino RLTP low profile legs but I might get the quick release version ).That should equate to a very simple and fast tent install to the crossbars. Discovered that the brackets I'd had on the awning attached to the Pioneer platform where the Foxwing brackets (pretty heavy 619g each vs Rhino Universal brackets 205g ). I didnt pick these when I'd got the awning a while back so it was interesting to see the difference in size / weight ). Every little helps!
ARB 2x2.5m Awning on the passenger side, rear opening tent and shovel on the right is the planned setup.
Will update when complete. Still thinking about the 3rd row removal, that will require someting for the Drifta drawers to rest on. Not searched for that modification yet....
re: Shingleback rack AlexRS4 - been eyeing those off for a while as my Yakima holdup 2 wobbles a bit at the hinge and the arm tension keeps coming loose. Do you have a Mitch Hitch?? Wondering how the height of a vertical rack works with this? Obviously old LR plough would sit the rack a lot lower.
