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Thread: Roof top tent - rack choice, install and overall layout for touring

  1. #1
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    Roof top tent - rack choice, install and overall layout for touring

    Hi all,

    Forum reader and have run out of answers for a few pre-trip outfitting puzzles so thought I’d put this out and try to find out if anyone’s got a great D4 roof rack setup to share that might help me finalise my setup for some planned outback travel now we can camp again in NSW and soon I hope Qld / SA.

    We are pretty much committed to buying one of 2 soft shell roof top tents - one is 54kg, the other 58kg. Have ruled out Oztenting or swagging it for family comfort and setup / packdown for overnight stops.

    Drifta also have a new hardshell tent out in about 8 weeks time which is too late for me but it's 160mm tall ( perfect height for my garage access ), can take accessories on top and the side extrusions, isn't iKamper cost or Alucab etc weight. Ideal but not available this month.

    Camper trailer would solve this but upfront cost plus ongoing storage rules it out and storage or access from my rear lane would be tricky. Have tried to push an unhitched soft floor in and it wasn't easy for two people.

    Already have a 1500x1375mm approx Pioneer Platform on low profile heavy duty mounts on the rear section of roof. This rack as its low height lives on the vehicle and as we have a cargo barrier fitted it comes in handy for IKEA trips and the like or to sling an awning on for weekend camping. I do like it.

    However the more I’ve looked into roof top tent mounting the common theme is “installation headaches” using the Pioneer system ( involves drilling the platform and fiddle to take on or off so maybe an hour vs 15 mins ) vs Frontrunner platform or the very simple on/off using tent brackets and cross bars ( I have Vortex bars that would fit ).

    Since we don’t have garage height access someone suggested the quick release style of Rhino mount and leave them plus the cross bars permanently fitted to swap between tent and platform for the daily drive.

    These are the options - if anyone can suggest different very keen to see what’s out there.

    Tent fitted to crossbars

    Pro’s
    -cost! Already have Vortex crossbars
    -easy tent install and removal ( less time for the tent supplier to fiddle around )
    -per above for weekend use can take the tent on and off. Local shopping centres no issue with the Pioneer stup
    -can still fit an awning one side. open tent off the other
    -overall weight Tent + crossbar + legs + awning and brackets = 71.55kg<stated 75kg dynamic roof load.

    Con’s
    -limited space to store accessories eg where to mount long shovel or Maxtrax if awning takes up one side, tent deployed the other side.
    -Vortex bars - are they light to survive corrugations??

    Tent fitted to platform

    Pro's
    -cost again as already have installed
    -can mount awning no problem and tent off the driver side

    Con’s
    -adds approx 20kg to overall roof weight
    -adds complexity to installation ( don’t really care about the holes drilled doesn’t make a difference when you can’t see it ) AND for DIY removal
    -still not optimum ability to carry other items eg Maxtrax ( how essential are they for outback travel on main tracks - never used on two previous trips, not even on Fraser either but thats not on this plan ). Long shovel - again its been carried so maybe could get a portable 2 or 3 piece version to keep in the cargo area
    -some space for small amount of firewood that might be available just outside a NP entrance. Do want to keep warm since July and August can be chill till we get north to Qld ( yes please )
    -no space on the platform to temporarily mount a 20w solar panel to keep batteries topped up before we depart as the car won’t be parked anywhere near the garage
    -weight 89.44

    3rd option tent fitted 1/2 to platform positioned at the rear roof section and part to a 3rd crossbar on the lower roof section

    Pro’s
    -free’s up space on the platform to strap Maxtrax down ( east / west ) plus firewood carry
    -50% easier install and removal as one set of RTT brackets are clamped on the crossbar
    -space to fit a 20w solar panel to keep batteries topped up before we depart as the car won’t be parked anywhere near the garage

    Con’s
    -$$ - need the lower tracks, another set of mounts ( high rise plus maybe spacers to level it ). Approx $400 for parts and install of the Rhino bits
    -$ - longer tent install time and still a pain to remove at home in the rear lane with time pressure. Might considers street removal and load tent onto a trolley to wheel back into the garage
    -Weight 100kgs all up tent, platform, 3rd crossbar, mounts, awning, maxtrax.

    Some things I haven’t looked at are if the tent can be deployed rearwards over the tailgate?

    I’ve seen a post where someone has fitted a similar tent in the UK using taller front runner brackets and it clears the tailgate ok by the look of it. Either side of the vehicle could be used to mount the awning and shovel / recovery tracks other side. The D4 tailgate does sit fairly high and since the tent is 38cm tall, don’t really want to start raising the height of the rack itself for centre of gravity issues.
    Land Rover Discovery 3 Roof Rack & Darche Roof Tent Fitting – Trek Overland Ltd


    Using the rear wheel carrier ( Tyretrek with double jerry holder and a spare wheel )
    The Maxxtrax could be perhaps mounted off the rear wheel carrier though I was planning on using a Drifta wheel bag with fire pit insert to carry rubbish and a 7kg fire pit. Have seen pics where people’s tyres have also been chewed up where the spikes on the board has been rubbing against. The newer harness has a rubber pad for protection.


    Also not sure if the Pioneer platform can be stripped down a bit in weight two planks instead of 4??


    Sorry long post, it’s a bit of a puzzle but an important one to get the right balance between practicality, cost, safety etc.

  2. #2
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    Some things to consider:

    I’ll add another con - 56kg + roof system exceeds roof rating.

    Camper can still be an option if you consider a motorised jockey wheel to move it around eg. Get it in your back gate.

    That 75kg+ also eats your GVM.

    Once you pick the vehicle it’s highly likely you’ll be well over.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Some things to consider:

    I’ll add another con - 56kg + roof system exceeds roof rating.

    Camper can still be an option if you consider a motorised jockey wheel to move it around eg. Get it in your back gate.

    That 75kg+ also eats your GVM.

    Once you pick the vehicle it’s highly likely you’ll be well over.
    Yeah been following your weighbridge post as well recently on the GVM topic.

    No bullbar, winch or lights do have Drifta 2 drawer system, full height Autosafe barrier and Traxide D45U in the vehicle, fridge and slide. Approx 157kg in human mass to consider. It doesn't leave much. 3rd row seats could come out, might help a bit.

    What's your take on dynamic roof limit - is it 75kg or 70kg for 2014 model?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dukemasterpro View Post

    3rd row seats could come out, might help a bit.

    What's your take on dynamic roof limit - is it 75kg or 70kg for 2014 model?
    Definitely take out the third row seats. They would easily off-set the weight of your drawers. They weigh about the same as a spare wheel from memory. Very heavy for one person to lift. I weighed them, but forget now. Over 30Kg I think. Leaves heaps of space for odds and sods, but might be tricky to access under drawers.

    Cavity Loadspace 2 reduced.jpg

    Maximum roof load is 75Kg. It's in the workshop manual.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    Definitely take out the third row seats. They would easily off-set the weight of your drawers. They weigh about the same as a spare wheel from memory. Very heavy for one person to lift. I weighed them, but forget now. Over 30Kg I think. Leaves heaps of space for odds and sods, but might be tricky to access under drawers.

    Cavity Loadspace 2 reduced.jpg

    Maximum roof load is 75Kg. It's in the workshop manual.
    That’s a neat way to use that seat cavity like it! Might be tricky to access gear with the drawers in place without some sort of hatch or opening cut into the base.

    The outfitter I spoke to suggested using that area for a custom made small water tank. The Drifta drawers have an access slot cut in to attach a tool to lower the spare rest is solid. I guess even if its empty the weight reduction is a plus. Definitely would ask them to remove the drawers since it’s a two man job at best.
    I understand the drawers are 35kg and I weighed my spare wheel 36.4kg.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dukemasterpro View Post
    That’s a neat way to use that seat cavity like it! Might be tricky to access gear with the drawers in place without some sort of hatch or opening cut into the base.

    The outfitter I spoke to suggested using that area for a custom made small water tank. The Drifta drawers have an access slot cut in to attach a tool to lower the spare rest is solid. I guess even if its empty the weight reduction is a plus. Definitely would ask them to remove the drawers since it’s a two man job at best.
    I understand the drawers are 35kg and I weighed my spare wheel 36.4kg.
    A water bladder would be a good idea under the drawers. Probably get about 40L in there, weighing, wait for it... 40Kg.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    A water bladder would be a good idea under the drawers. Probably get about 40L in there, weighing, wait for it... 40Kg.
    Nice and low position in there but yeah more KG’s again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dukemasterpro View Post
    Nice and low position in there but yeah more KG’s again.
    But only if you need to carry the water. If you needed it, you'd have to use jerry cans or whatever anyway. I remove as much dead weight as I can, including two second row seats for most bush trips. Mainly for the extra room, though. My chainsaw and box fit in there nicely and weigh significantly less than the removed seats.
    I used to love the way you could chop and channel a Series Landrover to suit your requirements and I reckon the D4 is pretty much the same in that sense. Well, more like Lego or Tetris perhaps in that you can move things around a bit. And if you clear out the rear compartments, there's no end of things you can store in there: remove the tow ball carrier from the left side and the jack holder from the right side.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  9. #9
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    How many people on the trip? Assuming all in the one RTT is your thinking?

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

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    Two adults one 4 nearly 5 years old child, all in one tent is the plan, will be quite cosy!

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