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Thread: High KMS - Transfer case...

  1. #21
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    Every one I do, gets a slop of Castrol Moly grease. Or if I've run out, nickel antiseize
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Every one I do, gets a slop of Castrol Moly grease. Or if I've run out, nickel antiseize
    This just begs the question: At what time/mileage, or under what conditions, does the original lubrication dry up or become ineffective? Should it be something you need to attend to at, say, each drive belt replacement time?
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Every one I do, gets a slop of Castrol Moly grease. Or if I've run out, nickel antiseize
    SO how often you pulling the TC off? I am assuming its to late for mine - and lube wont fix it? Or is it a case of pull it an see?

    Assume input just the input and out put or all internals? just asking a re build is $$ ?

    Bit disappointing this has not been done or suggest to me before by Dealer (cough) or Indi i use
    .

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    This just begs the question: At what time/mileage, or under what conditions, does the original lubrication dry up or become ineffective? Should it be something you need to attend to at, say, each drive belt replacement time?
    yep - good question.

  5. #25
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    Sheeze..another thing to worry about...I won't tell the missus @ this one. Just as well we've got the hoist now and I'm retired..just gotta get the patrols off it one day🙄

  6. #26
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    Replacing the D295 Magna Steyr TC shaft doesn’t sound too complicated.

    Replacing the 6hp26 output shaft means emptying the housing as it’s about the last part to come out. So a rebuild, and so may as well replace with new parts.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
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  7. #27
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    There is not much you can do, the splines wear pretty evenly, so both wear about the same rate. My 5L40E in my 2006 td6 was worn badly, when the trans got rebuilt at 185k it was replaced. I am not too concerned with the 6hp26/28, they will usually last out to when the gearbox requires a rebuild at the 250 to 300k mark. My TDv8 has done 166k now, no noticeable backlash.
    Most of the ones I see, all have dried grease and reasonable amounts of wear, some are bad, some not.
    I would only suggest pulling the case to check etc on lowish km units, as the cost can get to almost $900.
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #28
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    The local mechanic who R&R'd my D4's gbox when it need to be rebuilt fitted the new seal to the TC input shaft too far in which allowed oil to escape. He then R&R's the TC to fit another new seal in an afternoon. I will ask for a price to do the L322 as it has done 125K which I consider about the right time for preventative maintenance.
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  9. #29
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    199,876km, i think ill have a go at removing the transfer case, regrease the splines. What could possibly go wrong?.....

    Can someone tell me the prop shaft bolt settings please, and if theyre the same for both front and rear shafts.

    Thanks in advance.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    There is not much you can do, the splines wear pretty evenly, so both wear about the same rate. My 5L40E in my 2006 td6 was worn badly, when the trans got rebuilt at 185k it was replaced. I am not too concerned with the 6hp26/28, they will usually last out to when the gearbox requires a rebuild at the 250 to 300k mark. My TDv8 has done 166k now, no noticeable backlash.
    Most of the ones I see, all have dried grease and reasonable amounts of wear, some are bad, some not.
    I would only suggest pulling the case to check etc on lowish km units, as the cost can get to almost $900.
    Are your gearbox life predictions on a ‘sealed for life’ maintenance basis or oil changed every 80k kms basis? Towing/no towing?

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