Some use the little mouse style stick on version.
Me, I was always anti-hole making. Until I decided to have it work for me, not the next owner.
I can still replace the panel cheaply if I want to - but why would I?

Getting LED spotlights fitted tomorrow, wondering if anyone can offer any thoughts as to how they've positioned had a switch for these in the cabin. Ideally no drilling or cutting holes.
Lights are the Hard Korr BZR160 lights plus their wiring harness.
I've searched but not found anything specific, they managed to hide the UHF above the pedals so I'm sure they can be creative with this too but always good to start the job off with some ideas. Go from there...they can also check the earth points for any loose connection for my other electrical issues.
Some use the little mouse style stick on version.
Me, I was always anti-hole making. Until I decided to have it work for me, not the next owner.
I can still replace the panel cheaply if I want to - but why would I?

 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I too decided to go with what works for me, not the next owner. One benefit of being on the lower dash panel is the lights on the switch are not distracting when operating. Some of the mouse type buttons have really bright blue LEDs.
I also use a blank in the overhead panel for my roof mounted side and rear lights which is easy to replace should i need to.
Good luck with whatever you do...
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberI put a spot light switch into the panel that’s under the steering wheel. It’s hidden from general view but easily accessible. I don’t need to use it often but it’s reachable when driving

2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Couple of options - Jmark the interior light panel is that a lengthier process to put the wiring up to there vs that lower panel Tombie has used? I'd go with any of these, Discojeffster's wins the stealthy fitting spot prize, like it.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Definitely more hassle getting power/ wiring up to overhead panel (I used drivers side A-pillar) and may require lengthening of cables. Easiest by far is lower dash panel with steering column cover next (easier than overhead).
Don’t have picture but in my old Landy I put it next to the headlight switch. Just cut away a little of the plastic ribbing in the back of the unit and you’re good to go. I thought it was a neat solution .
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Looked at that and pulled headlight switch panel apart but has a circuit board running across whole area in my D4, including the blank section. Wasn't prepared to cut through it myself to create space for switch and wiring, but would've been a handy spot if workable...
Hi Duke, do you have any reason/intentions of actually using the switch?
I have had driving lights on just about every vehicle I have had for the last 45+ years, and I can not remember ever using that switch.
The ADRs, used in every state, require a switch to be fitted to make the driving light Installation legal.
What the ADR does not state, is where the switch is to be located.
To this end, in all my vehicles for the last 20 years, I have fitted the switch under the bonnet, no holes in a new dash for me.
I also use an On/Off/On switch, so in the middle position the driving lights are off at all times, in one of the ON positions, the driving lights are only on when high beam is on. In the other ON position, the driving lights can be turned on and left on regardless of the headlights being on.
This third position comes in hand when setting up the lights and when camping.
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterI have a small rocker switch in the panel in front of the panel with the OBD port (Pretty much in line with the brake pedal). I just reach down and flick it if needed. Out of the road. Had to drill one hole, but who cares, no one can see it. Easy to reach and easy to run wire to as it's just near the hole in the firewall.
2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks