Thread: D4 Rear locker

I agree with the above. I move to a 2013 D4 after selling my D2 and was also researching rear lockers. But there’s never been a time where I’ve actually needed one. The traction control and programming makes a rear locker obsolete. There’s been a few times where I’ve had all 4 wheels spinning at once. I’d also spend my money on a discrete winch mount and winch first and seeing how you like it before spending any other money on something that you will most likely find out you don’t need.

By memory in hard off roading I used 21psi front and 27 or 28 psi rear - that got me through pretty much everything

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I contacted GAP for the latest code the the traction system and had that sent and flashed. Yes was pretty cheap in that range but can’t remember the exact cost. It’s whatever they charge for a custom flash.

Thanks for that.
And the follow up question - is there any relatively easy way to find out just what updates are available to pick and choose from?

I guess if you have a rear diff lock (as I do) then you really dont know what its like without one. The only way you could see if they are worth the extra $1000 on car purchase is to have 2 cars do the same track and see how they go. I think a rear locker will get you slightly further in certain situations, but in a LR with it locking and partially locking etc I just wonder whether one that is one or off and "switchable" by the driver if they wanted, or just allow the TC to work it would be a better option. As others have said, I much prefer a winch (which I have) just because it WILL get me through at the end of the day. Lockers will get you IN and sometimes THROUGH a problem but not always!!

Originally Posted by dirvine

I guess if you have a rear diff lock (as I do) then you really don't know what its like without one.

You would if you unplugged the RDCU!

I looked for a MY12 4.4TDV8 L322 with an e-diff to replace my 3.0 D4 that had an e-diff but eventually settled for one without an e-diff. I noticed quite a difference in progress through sloppy conditions on my driveway between the 2 vehicles so kept a look-out for an e-diff to retrofit, which I eventually did and it now behaves as the D4 did. Unlike the D4, the L322 stopped production in 2012 so I didn't have the opportunity to upgrade TR to a later level. I can say that the vehicle performed magically on badly chopped-out approaches to sand ridges with its e-diff but I didn't disable the e-diff to compare progress with an open diff.

Originally Posted by Graeme

You would if you unplugged the RDCU!

I looked for a MY12 4.4TDV8 L322 with an e-diff to replace my 3.0 D4 that had an e-diff but eventually settled for one without an e-diff. I noticed quite a difference in progress through sloppy conditions on my driveway between the 2 vehicles so kept a look-out for an e-diff to retrofit, which I eventually did and it now behaves as the D4 did. Unlike the D4, the L322 stopped production in 2012 so I didn't have the opportunity to upgrade TR to a later level. I can say that the vehicle performed magically on badly chopped-out approaches to sand ridges with its e-diff but I didn't disable the e-diff to compare progress with an open diff.

That's an interesting observation, Graeme.
I don't have an e-diff on my 3.0L 2013 D4 and have not noticed any issues in the bush as the D4 traction abilities are amazing. However, on a hilly farm track recently (on new Pirelli AT+ tyres at 36psi front, 40psi rear), I had to negotiate a steepish very wet and slippery patch - only about three or four car lengths long - and the D4 only just managed to work it's way through it. My gut feel at the time was that it would have found it much easier with the e-diff. Due to the heavy rain and the track being used more than we should have, the patch just became worse and worse. I didn't drive over it on the last day as I didn't need to and I didn't want to further damage the track. But if I had had to use it, I think I would have been OK, but getting stuck would have crossed my mind, so I would have lowered tyre pressures significantly. But I probably wouldn't have bothered doing that if I had an e-diff.

I like the continued forward progress but I need to remember to switch off DSC beforehand to stay away from trees and fences as the vehicle gets badly out of shape when the throttle is cut.

Edit: Removing the 40A e-diff fuse would be the easiest way to disable it for a comparison, providing its done with the ignition off to ensure that the clutch pack isn't partly engaged.

Originally Posted by Graeme

I like the continued forward progress but I need to remember to switch off DSC beforehand to stay away from trees and fences as the vehicle gets badly out of shape when the throttle is cut.

Yes! I wonder why DSC isn't automatically disabled in Low Range?

I don't use low range on my driveway although I used it extensively on Googs track.