Reply With QuoteOriginal battery? If so it will be dying by now. But yes the LR system is sensitive to current drain..prolly too sensitive in my view..which is annoying at times.
Fossicker
SupporterHi gents,
Avid reader, first-time poster; so go easy. Almost all of my mechanical knowledge is as a consequence of this forum!
D4 2015 owner, 100k on clock. Had a very reputable indy fit a Redarc BCDC1225 unit + 44ah optima yellow top battery for my 40l Waeco fridge. Works great, however, last couple of trips noticed that opening car door in morning (after a night around campfire) I'd often get the "beep" and low battery warning on dashboard.
As a caveat, I'm near certain the dual battery system is rigged up fine, and isolated properly, but what is worrying me is, having read another post on here addressing it to some extent; we are in and out of the car all night. Boot generally left open all night, accessing the fridge, and we're constantly opening doors getting gear out. From pretty much as soon as we've parked up, until morning. Each time, dash computer wakes up, all lights come on. I'd been turning them off manually, more to get rid of flies/mossies, but now - I'm thinking this is draining the cranking battery?
Last trip, I said to missus, stop opening doors all night, we left the drivers door open all night, and we managed to get an extra day' s camping before the beep sounded (48hrs wthout starting engine). Makes me think it is this, and nothing to do with dual battery system...
So, my thoughts are;
- surely the wise folks at LR would have designed a system that could allow owner to disable all the gadgets waking up, every time you open a door?
- also, do we think this, done numerous times over 24 hours period, could flatten a battery? or given the warning beep?
- is the cranking battery on the way out, and how can I test?
Would love an opinion before buying new battery...
Chris
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2015 D4, 100kms, Fuji white + Black pack, Rhino Rack Vortex bars + Batwing awning, APT Rock sliders, Redarc DCDC1225DC + Waeco CFX 40l Fridge on XTM slider draws, Maxtrax
Wizard
Original battery? If so it will be dying by now. But yes the LR system is sensitive to current drain..prolly too sensitive in my view..which is annoying at times.
Master
If you want to disable the interior lights , hold the centre button on the light console in the front for about 5 secs and the interior lights disable , to re-enable them just do the same .
I am pretty sure this stops the ECU's waking up as well. I do this every time we camping and never had an issue , altho I have a traxide system not a redarc but shouldnt matter as they wont stop the start battery draining from interior lights and ECU's - ( well i dont think they do )
Bulletman
Swaggie
While camping i always leave one door open all the time,with internal lights turned off,although they eventually timeout and go off anyway,if a door is left open.
From memory,a door on first click will be good enough,to stop the vehicle waking up whenever another door is opened.
And for those with a Roof Top tent,door on first click will also stop the vehicle continually revelling,and eventually ending up on, or close to being on its bump stops,by the morning.
Master
SubscriberAssuming your car battery is in good condition the opening of doors will be your problem and as others have said, disable the interior lights and I leave the back door open not the front as it doesn't have a puddle light that can stay on for a while. The rear tailgate doesn't trigger the car to wake up but I leave it open until bedtime anyway.
Rod
D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel
OldBushie
A door open doesn’t stop re-levelling. This is incorrect.
A door that the vehicle detects open will be sufficient to time out the ecu start up.
Opening the vehicle each time does activate the boot sequence - and it cannot be disabled as it’s designed to get the vehicle ready to go. Otherwise everyone would complain it takes 45 seconds to start the vehicle!
A learning for camping - leave the tailgate open until bedtime and only get your gear from in there. And stop randomly opening doors. Remember the PPPPPP (or in this case a flat battery)
Fossicker
SupporterThanks all, sounds like tailgate access only, and leaving a door on the latch - think i'll get the battery checked given it's knocking on 5+ years old now. That said, on topic of P's - missus has told me she wants the doors shut due to bloody big Possum's getting in the car! Which i thought was a fair call; I can vouch that they are pretty ballsy in those NSW south coast camp sites...Originally Posted by Tombie
A door open doesn’t stop re-levelling. This is incorrect.
A door that the vehicle detects open will be sufficient to time out the ecu start up.
Opening the vehicle each time does activate the boot sequence - and it cannot be disabled as it’s designed to get the vehicle ready to go. Otherwise everyone would complain it takes 45 seconds to start the vehicle!
A learning for camping - leave the tailgate open until bedtime and only get your gear from in there. And stop randomly opening doors
Swaggie
We will have to agree to disagree
Wizard
Our original D4 battery went at @5 years. Supplier of new bat thought that was a pretty good run for a "modern car". We seldom get that from red tops or yellow tops nowadays even in non ecu Nissans.
Wizard
SubscriberYou can disagree all you like scarry, but Tombie is correct, albeit in a technical sense.We will have to agree to disagree
Straight from the workshop manual:
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Door Open
The air suspension control module will stop all height change requests while any of the doors are open. Vehicle leveling continues with a door open by keeping the vehicle at the height when the door was opened if the vehicle load changes. Door open status is ignored when the vehicle speed is above 8 km/h (5 mph).
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In practice, suspension changes are inhibited when you open a door (I don't think this applies to the tailgate) unless you remove or add a load heavy enough to raise or lower a corner, then the car corrects the height. It's pretty marginal, though, you just hear a few clicks and the car wobbles a bit and you do wonder why it bothered to do that, but it's a neat party trick.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
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