Thread: Opposite Lock Bull Bar D4

Had two OL bulbars and they’re great.

Two things that you should do while you’re in behind the bar is lift the little black heat shrinked section (that holds the relays) in the middle of the wiring harness - lift it up to infront of the radiator as high as it goes and then cable tie it to the framework.

Found that mine was down behind the bulbar and was actually the lowest point in the wiring harness - it’s NOT waterproof and I ended up with the PC board track shorting out but it did not draw enough current to actually blow the fuse. Resulted in the bulbar indicators not working took me ages to fault find and 5 minutes to fix. One problem was that Opposite Lock would not give me a wiring diagram and I could not find anything on the Web - I had to trace the circuit myself.

I would also move the yellow fuse holder from behind the bar to up in the engine compartment where you can get to it easily if needed - it’s a pain to get to tucked in behind the bulbar & plastic wheel arch.

Originally Posted by Turtle60

It has to be removed and then and the bar behind discarded. Then you’ll have to cut the webbing from the back of the plastic bar and put it back over the hidden mount. None of it is difficult but a good weekend. Fitting and wiring the winch takes time which is pretty much the point of the exercise I guess.
I have done It against a few pros and cons offered up here. All valid but my choice.

Turtle60,
Did you install the hidden winch behind an original LR bull bar or just the stock LR bumper bar? I’m looking to do the former.

Hawc

To get a winch into an already fitted bar it’s handy to have an oscillating cutting tool.

Drop the lower protective plate.
The small plastic bar running across the radiator needs to be removed - this is where the oscillating cutter is handy.
Prepare the winch - no cable etc to make it light as possible. Work out where the handle will need to be and move it before installing (if needed).
You can use a trolley jack to help lift if needed.
A friend to insert the first couple of bolts from the front is helpful.

Originally Posted by Hawc

Turtle60,
Did you install the hidden winch behind an original LR bull bar or just the stock LR bumper bar? I’m looking to do the former.

Hawc

Behind the original stock plastic bumper.
D66E4AA6-F227-47B0-A59D-348CFB7AFF4D.jpg

Originally Posted by Turtle60

Behind the original stock plastic bumper.
D66E4AA6-F227-47B0-A59D-348CFB7AFF4D.jpg

Thanks. Pity, as I was looking for someone who had done so behind a LR bull bar to get some tips from. Cheers

Originally Posted by Hawc

Thanks. Pity, as I was looking for someone who had done so behind a LR bull bar to get some tips from. Cheers

Ditto, except the LR genuine bar is very similar to the original bumper, do I’m assuming that the fitment must similar.

I was told by OL that the bar had to be removed to put a winch in. I couldn't afford a winch at the time so am curious about being able to put one in without removing bar.

For anyone that is contemplating getting an OL bar, 2 things to note, it's hard to remove the grill without hitting the bar. You cannot remove your headlights to change bulbs. You will have to get to them from the inside as the headlight setup cannot fit through the spacing in the bar.

Tommy

“They” both say you cannot fit the winch with bar insitu and this is incorrect.

The bar has been fitted too close if the grill cannot be removed.

Headlight bulb changes are easy, unlock the light and move it forward, then work from behind (in engine bay). It works easily this way.
Note: This is not a design flaw, it’s a compliance requirement - the tube cannot be any higher otherwise it’s outside the “profile” of the vehicle and not ADR compliant.