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Thread: EPB failing sound, but different

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeis View Post
    I’ll be doing this as soon as I get my gear unpacked at home
    It jams because the hand brake is in need of adjustment. When you free it, ensure you adjust the handbrake otherwise it will jam again. Follow your brake bible guide for the hand brake adjustment.
    2024 RRS on the road
    2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  2. #12
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    Yes I have , as Justin said. Clutch in plastic gears are doing their job. Cheap fix just a bit fiddly. Mine was the RRS (same thing).
    I dropped spare wheel. Removed EPB mounting bracket off the chassis and rotated the brake unit 180° so access is much more comfortable.

    My red arrows show where the two come together and tighten up on the thread.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeis View Post
    Has anyone had this exact issue and managed to get away with unjamming it and not replacing?

    ive seen the Brit part video but it’s about replacement not fixing the existing one. I think they are $$$
    I had this issue and did what justinc has said, but my mechanic needed to take the outer boot off to get additional leverage. Cant remember exactly what tool he used (I think a flat blade and hammer) but we couldnt get it to budge with just the cover off.

    Also, remember to reseal the cover when you put it back together.

  4. #14
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    Thanks for the image. That’s a big help.

    I’m confused a little about the rotation to the end and then the cable latching part, I can’t see the cable in this picture but sure within two minutes on the phone it will make sense if anyone is able and willing to send me their number so I now I’m on the right path?

    Quote Originally Posted by theelms66 View Post
    Yes I have , as Justin said. Clutch in plastic gears are doing their job. Cheap fix just a bit fiddly. Mine was the RRS (same thing).
    I dropped spare wheel. Removed EPB mounting bracket off the chassis and rotated the brake unit 180° so access is much more comfortable.

    My red arrows show where the two come together and tighten up on the thread.

  5. #15
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I have done this exact job many, many times.
    Wish more mechanics knew the detail. So many just fit complete new modules at the first noise (after never being adjusted prior).

    Cheers,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  6. #16
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    Just to close this one out.

    I did this yesterday using the above tips and a quick call with Dan which was very helpful - job done successfully, now after two months I have a hand brake again.

    To do the job you only need to lift the car, I removed both wheels and the spare but this wasn’t necessary. However as I decided to check the adjustment on the shoes having the wheels off wasnt a waste of time.

    Access to the torx screws is very tight but luckily I was able to undo them with my fingers just holding the torx socket and turning them.

    a fairly decent pry with the cover to break the silicone seal - used a pry tool but a flat head screw driver would also work

    the brass rod I needed to use a hammer and short flat screwdriver to get the initial bit Unjammed then a couple of quick turns with my fingers before jumping in the cabin and using the button to activate the EPB, that then did the rest of the work to spool along and reattach the cable for me.

    The picture below is upside down and shows it after the above fix has been done. It took me a moment to realise this when mine looked different.

    quick silicone on the cover, redo the torx screws as it’s all done. Thanks boys

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