Thread: D4 3.0 SDV6 catastrophic failure

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I still don’t there is a definitive agreed single fault.

Fully agree - there will always be multiple issues that can cause a crank (and engine) failure. This will be both pre-existing conditions and contributing actions that any one can have the same result.

Design will be high on the list but will not be the only cause.

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Fully agree - there will always be multiple issues that can cause a crank (and engine) failure. This will be both pre-existing conditions and contributing actions that any one can have the same result.

Design will be high on the list but will not be the only cause.

Much like tooth decay

Hi Eric,

thanks for the clarification re timing chains. I did wonder if installing a oil pump at the same time as the timing belt, would improve the timing chain growl. It does only last a secodn or 2, but now that i know of it, i cant not hear potential consequences, and i have managed to turn the motor over without it starting, but you have to be quick with your foot and it does reduce the timing chain noise.

I did pour some of the Liqui Moly, to reduce friction in the bottom end, whether ot actually helps or not, i may never know but it adds a mental placebo..lol

cheers
Geoff

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

That "rattle" is the timing chain at the top of the engine, between the outer cam and inner cam, the outer is driven off the timing belt. This has nothing to do with the crank not having any oil. This noise occurs because the oil is sitting in the sump (where it should be, and not on your garage floor) to ensure the crank and all big ends get enough oil. Plus the oil pump needs enough head to ensure oil is sprayed where its supposed to go. Theres nothing to do or worry about with the timing chain rattle. It will always happen and you cant fix it with a new oil pump. If it goes on longer than a second or two, then your timing chain guides and/or timing chain is stretched. Keep your oil levels correct, change oil every 10,000km and use only the specified grade and oil type, oem filters and you've got a decent chance of not having a catastrophic failure.

Also, i dont know how you intend to crank the engine without your foot on the brake, these are interlocked.

Id be hesitant in adding friction modifiers to you oil for these close tolerance engines. Stick with the 5w30 full synthetics as per LR spec and their factory additive packages already in the oil...and frequent oil changes.

Edit

Hi,
Having just read this thread, I'm rather sh*tting my pants about the upcoming purchase I'm about to make. I want a *nice* car, 7 seats but as I live by the beach, want to be able to get on there with some minor off road camping and the Disco 4 was my car of choice. Budget is allowing an SDV6 around MY12/13, km's range from 120k to 200k so I'm wondering if I'm setting my self up for a huge issue.

Aside from the frequent 10k oil changes, is an NRMA/inspection from a garage on the car going to give me any insights into a problem going forward? I'm guessing no by the way some people have said they have treated their cars. Of course, I'll look for FSH and things of that nature.

Regards

Bear

Originally Posted by TheBear

is an NRMA/inspection from a garage on the car going to give me any insights into a problem going forward?
Regards

Bear

No,very difficult to pick the problem, but its certainly a low % of vehicles.

Regular service records are very important.

Forget NRMA,get a good LR Indy to go over the vehicle, not a dealer.

Someone may chime in with a good one near you.

Buy one with some sort of really good warranty plan