Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 23 of 23

Thread: How many KMs is too many KMs when buying used?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
    Posts
    561
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ATH View Post
    Well I'm glad that's all I will have to look forward to as our D4 edges towards the old age of 4 years and nearly 90k.
    AlanH.
    No need to worry!

    EAS is not a common problem with later cars. The air compressors appear to be very reliable and all other components rarely give probs.
    Turbo Actuators seizing were mainly associated with the single turbo 2.7 as far as I can determine.
    Inlet manifolds have been updated several times and you are unlikely to succumb with an MY16
    Alternators will eventually fail on any engine from 150,000 klms on
    Keep the electric park brake/shoes cleaned and adjusted correctly and that will prevent 99% of any problems, and just to be super safe, don't use it if parked on flat.

    My MY13 has just clocked 143,000 and going strongly (bugger, just put the mockers on it!).
    Hasn't had anything done other than brakes, LHR door lock actuator (appears to be a common problem and my 2009 RRS had same problem).
    Timing belts done by Justin recently due to age, 7 yrs.
    Still on original lower control arm bushes and I checked them yesterday whilst the wheels were off having new tyres fitted.
    The Penrite BMV auto oil still going strong @ 41,000 klms.......
    I change engine oil/filter every 10k, fuel filter 15-20k, and use Fuel Doctor religiously.
    Still have the Permagrin every time I drive it.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Forrestfield WA
    Posts
    1,306
    Total Downloaded
    0
    My 2010 D4 was pretty well faultless up till 200,000km. That is where the money pit started. I would never sell it to a friend also due to the high cost of maintenance. It is now at 290,000km and needs its second EPB (never going to happen), front bushes (unlikely), just had its second new AC compressor for $2800, occasional restricted performance despite new turbos, new manifolds, fixed exhaust manifolds and other things over the years, all brakes need replacing, rattling cat, and a few other items that won't be getting fixed. It is now our daily driver and we use the D5 for towing and touring. The transmission has been serviced nearly every year, the car is serviced at 10,000km or 6 months by an indie. So far no mechanical problems with the actual engine and the transmission is still fine.

    Even at 10 years old and 290,000km the car drives beautifully unless you hit a sharp bump on the RH side, when you get the clunking bush.
    Bob

    2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
    2019 Discovery 5 SD6 SE, 20 inch wheels, 275/55R20 Nitto Grappler G2 tyres

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    3,828
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Depends on the vehicle and it's history. But for unknown I aim for around 150,000km and the seven year mark - often the vehicles are ex-lease so have had the expected services and maintenance done. The 150,000km means that if the auto tranny is still on it's original fluid (highly likely), it's hopefully early enough to catch and replace to prolong its life. At this distance and time it's also likely due the timing belts, so price can be further negotiated and allows me to ensure that it's done properly along with all the additional recommended extra items. This all gives me a good base line for starting our time with the vehicle. It's also the point that the bulk of the depreciation has hit so you're probably paying less than a 1/3rd of the vehicles original purchase price.
    Should the vehicle have history of all this then older and more kms could become acceptable.

    Personally I went with the MY12 D4 TDV6's for both ours. With some of the options ticked there specs aren't too bad, it's the last of the 2.7 TDV6 engine which has been refined with most of the issues sorted, also cheaper to replace from a Territory if it was ever required, it's got more than enough torque and power for us, especially after a BAS remap and EGR deactivation, the six speed was a big step up for us from old four and five speed transmissions and the they're priced well compared to the newer 3L 8 speed combinations etc.
    Also the 2010-2011 models have limitations with the entertainment system for upgradability.
    I'd certainly consider V8 for the right price. So highly speced and such a nice engine.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!