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Thread: D4 towbar assembly has play - replace with Mitch Hitch?

  1. #1
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    Question D4 towbar assembly has play - replace with Mitch Hitch?

    Of our two MY12 D4's, one has a fair bit of play in the standard fitment towbar - there seems to be about 2mm of gap either side in the receiver (where the towbar assembly goes onto the vehicle chassis, not the tongue into towbar assembly). I did a Google search and most of the prior discussion, from some time ago, and relating to the Discovery 3 talks about replacing with a Mitch Hitch < Mitchell Bros Hi-Rise Tow Hitch – Mitchell Bros 4x4 - Mitch Hitch >. Is this still the appropriate course of action for a D4?

  2. #2
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    Yep

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    As tombie said in his short and sweet way, yup. Don't know too many (none off the top of my head) that would go back from their Mitch hitch setup. It's on my list of to-do's for our D4. It is definitely a big improvement and arguably (silly argument on the detractor side...) a much stronger setup along with the big increase on departure angle.
    -------------------------
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    Offroader: 1996 Discovery 300TDI (The Green Donkey)
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  4. #4
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    Thanks. Will order one in then. We haven't had any specific issues with the Land Rover setups, departure angles etc. haven't been a concern for us but there's too much play in the new vehicle so needs to be sorted.

  5. #5
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    I have a mitch hitch. Only thing I dont like is that its always attached and it sticks out just waiting to catch your shin if you are not careful. At first I forgot it was there and although my car has a camera and reversing beepers, I tend to drive by the sound of the beepers rather than looking at the screen. When the beepers are a solid noise the mitch hitch is now only about 100mm from the car behind, rather than the old way of about 300mm. So watch your reversing especially if you do not have a camera to see whats happening.
    2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap

  6. #6
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    Yes. If the standard piece of rubbish ever comes off it’s potentially your life on the line. For the sake of $500 replace it with a decent hitch.
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  7. #7
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    My Mitch Hitch is ordered.


    Quote Originally Posted by dirvine View Post
    Only thing I dont like is that its always attached and it sticks out just waiting to catch your shin if you are not careful.
    We always leave the towbar and tongue fitted to all our cars, so I don't imagine it's too different?


    Quote Originally Posted by dirvine View Post
    At first I forgot it was there and although my car has a camera and reversing beepers, I tend to drive by the sound of the beepers rather than looking at the screen. When the beepers are a solid noise the mitch hitch is now only about 100mm from the car behind, rather than the old way of about 300mm. So watch your reversing especially if you do not have a camera to see whats happening.
    Glad to hear that it's compatible with the reverse parking sensors - I hadn't even thought of that! Our aftermarket reverse camera just doesn't show the factory tow bar - so hopefully with the Mitch Hitch's position it might show it which will make it easier to reverse onto trailers etc.


    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post
    Yes. If the standard piece of rubbish ever comes off it’s potentially your life on the line.
    I'm worried about getting our old units out - they look a bit rusty and the vehicles didn't come with keys. I plan to soak them in WD40 and take to a locksmith to pick.


    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post
    For the sake of $500 replace it with a decent hitch.
    $752.00 now for a Mitch Hitch delivered.

  8. #8
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    D4 towbar assembly has play - replace with Mitch Hitch?

    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    I'm worried about getting our old units out - they look a bit rusty and the vehicles didn't come with keys. I plan to soak them in WD40 and take to a locksmith to pick.
    .
    You can buy replacement keys on eBay.



    And failing that, they are very simple to remove the lock without a key as the handle mechanism is only held on with a roll pin. The lock is just to prevent accidental removal.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    You can buy replacement keys on eBay.
    Bought a set of keys for the one but they don't work. The other one is corroded over where the key code would/should be - nothing is visible any more.


    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    And failing that, they are very simple to remove the lock without a key as the handle mechanism is only held on with a roll pin. The lock is just to prevent accidental removal.
    Thanks, this will likely be my solution.

  10. #10
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    My theory is the pin and ball bearing mechanism (which is only to hold the plunger back when removed) is what seizes up preventing you from fully opening the handle and allowing the plunger to clear the receiver.

    When unlocked, the handle has to be able to turn back to allow the pin to move up and the ball bearing to lock in place. If the pin is seized, then the ball bearing gets jammed against this pin and stops the plunger being withdrawn.

    After 5 years on being left fitted, I managed to unlock with lots of WD40 and brute force on the handle to force the pin to move.

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