My MY08 had the updated pump from the factree. Had belts done at 100k/6 yrs old.
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My MY11 D4 had the update.
When I did the belts I still replaced it with a new unit.
IMHO...
*I'd say 100% of the oil pump housing failures JUST after a timing belt change is due to a uneducated monkey using a 1/2 drive torque wrench (if at all) when doing up the tensioner bolt to that 25NM.
*I dont see the pump failure as a vehicle or manufacturing fault.
*As far as I am aware I've not had one fail after doing a timing belt (before it was well known there was an updated pump).
*I have also not heard of the oil pump failing, as in not pumping oil etc, I see no reason to change this out.
A professional should be using something like this, 3/8 drive, digital:
I bought a 1/4" 5-25nm torque wrench just for this job, wasn't taking any chances.
The casting is very thin around the mounting boss so wouldn't take much to weaken it.
I agree regarding the torqueing, as mine still had the original pump with approx 270 000km's on it, but I had it changed to the reinforced one after seeing all the problems people have had, also did belt, tensioners, water pump and water manifold simultaneously, at the same time, together. I got an OEM one as a Ford Territory one wasn't available, a bargain at $250 if Ford has stock, also note the pump doesn't come with the shaft seal nor the crankshaft bolt. In the UK it seems you can get the same pump from Citroen. Still takes 5-6 secs on the 1st start of the day for the oil pressure light to stop flickering, supposedly an original LR pump will make oil pressure in a couple of seconds.
LR time has an interesting video where he analyses the difference in oil pressure with old and new pump and reasons why. Wear and clearance issues inside the pump I believe.
He recommended the FAI version.
I'll be getting all belts done later this year and will get oil, water pumps done plus the plastic water thingy that fails.