He posted a video of it running after the engine swap on FB.
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This is interesting, ours has done a bit over 200k km, I've recently noticed that ours takes about 5 or 6 seconds to get pressure up after it has been parked a couple of days.
If its only over night, it's much quicker, obviously something is draining back somewhere.
What sort of times are others seeing? I'm a bit annoyed that I didn't take note of what it has always done.
Mahle I think, I'll check tomorrow.
18 months ago I fitted a fomoco pump after mine failed, I never noticed any delay in pressure build up before it failed at 195k and I'd say it's near on instant now.
Mine takes 2-3 seconds until tappet noise stops and oil light turns off. Has always done this to my memory. Is already on a replacement oil cooler and its 2nd oil pump getting the updated part in 2014. In hindsight that was a double bonus from an oil pressure point of view. I will change it again shortly with timing belts next change.
My 2005 L319 takes 3 to 4 seconds for the oil light to go out after the car has been sitting for a couple of days. this is after I fitted a new oil pump (latest spec) a few weeks ago.
It is one of those annoying things with the 2.7Tdv6.
If used daily the light goes off in a few seconds, but as soon as you park it up for an extended time most of the oil drains off and it can take 5-6 seconds to get to the minimum oil pressure again. Same as when doing an oil change.
The updated oil pump should reduce this time, plus also depending on how tight the manufacturing tolerances with the oil pump are can also influence the pump drain down time. This is why I believe the FoMoCo pump is also better than the FAI pump.
Plus you have to make sure the oil filter drain plug spigot fits in snuggly. Have seen variations of up to 1mm in overall diameter with the oil ring on the filter drain plug from different suppliers which would also make some more prone to draining off oil quicker. I suspect some suppliers think this is just a locating plug and not a drain plug that needs to seal tight.
But in general the simplest solution is the D3 just needs to be exercised daily!
I’ve just done some work on a Subaru EJ25 engine with leaking oil pump seal. These mount on the front of the block and are turned by the crank in exactly the same way as the TDV6. I learnt there is a global glitch whereby the screws in the flat cover plate at back of the pump back out causing a drop in oil pressure while running. It’s highly recommended to check and loctite when pump is removed. Sure enough a few on mine were very loose but plate was ok.
There are so many factors known and unknown in these bloody things you ultimately need a bit of luck on your side.
Something about if it flys floats or drives it will give you problems or variations thereof.