Barraman - hopefully you haven’t ended up with one of the early BT ones which had a faulty Bluetooth transmitter.
The other possibility is it was previously used a lot for extended monitoring and it has subsequently failed.
Hope you get it sorted - it is a good bit of kit to have. Mine paid for itself just re-programming new keys (back when the alternative was a single key from JLR for the price of the GAP unit).
Did a fair bit of driving around this morning and all was good. Parked for 30 minutes and when I came back to the car the battery was essentially dead. NRMA came around in about 30 minutes and no load the battery was at 11.5v and open a door and dropped to 5v. Dead battery.
To the Battery Factory who confirmed the battery had failed and was replaced.
Other than maybe reading voltages would a Gap tool be able to help and with a dead battery will a Gap tool still work? Does it have its own power source?
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
"a little segway"
havent heard that before.....
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I don’t think it will fix stupidity either.
But if you did monitor battery voltage and suspected you had a problem before it died completely, then it could assist you to diagnose what the alternator is doing under different load conditions.
My battery is on its way out (too long sitting idle during the lockdown we had to have) but using the GAP tool I have confirmed the alternator is working as expected. Other tools can also do this.
Of course I also have 2 permanently connected battery monitors, another OBD adapter used for continuous monitoring of over 50 parameters I have loaded onto my Android head unit, and I am now building a Panasonic Toughbook with even more monitoring and diagnostics capability - so perhaps too much info available to me now.
Gotta love modern tech and gadgets.
Nice little wording edit from your original there...
A GAP tool is an interface between the car computers, and the device you are using - usually a phone. If the car battery doesn't have enough power to run it's on board systems (like, for example, when it has 5 volts), there is no point trying to query them.
How useful was your Faultmate FCR this morning?
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
To the OP - Barraman as you have gone quiet whilst we hijack and molest your thread, just a thought occurred to me.
The GAP tool can have its firmware reloaded direct from a PC. I have had another old OBD adapter stop working which I have been able to recover by connecting to a Laptop and reloading and updating the firmware.
Worthwhile giving this a try with the GAP tool. You can access the IIDTool Updater through your GAP Diagnostics account set up when you registered the tool in your name.
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberThe fact you ask such ignorant questions clearly shows why a GAP tool would be useless to you as you haven’t got the slightest understanding of how vehicle electronics work. It’s probably good your Faultmate is so limited in what it can do.
The Gap tool is great for the DIY enthusiast with half a clue about cars.
Poor attempt at trolling.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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