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Thread: Slow a/c on D4

  1. #31
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    $395 for syatem evac, vac test, dye and stop leak and refrigerant regas.
    Was the guy wearing striped pyjamas, a mask and carrying a bag over his shoulder with “swag” written on it?

  2. #32
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    Thanks for the "supportive" comments fellas...


    Yes I'm thinking the "stop leak"should be called "stop valve". Not too impressed. This was from my local Automasters, they advertise an AC regas "from $160".

  3. #33
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    And another ‘supportive’ comment,many seem to advertise “regas”.

    As per mandatory requirements,there is no such thing in a modern vehicle.
    If the refrigerant disappears,the system leak must be located and repaired.The system cannot be filled with refrigerant if it is leaking.

    The hoses and seals on modern vehicles don’t leak,like they did 25 plus years ago.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    And another ‘supportive’ comment,many seem to advertise “regas”.

    As per mandatory requirements,there is no such thing in a modern vehicle.
    If the refrigerant disappears,the system leak must be located and repaired.The system cannot be filled with refrigerant if it is leaking.

    The hoses and seals on modern vehicles don’t leak,like they did 25 plus years ago.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #35
    josh.huber Guest
    I think the price is fine Eric, it does take a few hours to do plus consumables. And they have the gear and accreditation to do the job.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    I think the price is fine Eric, it does take a few hours to do plus consumables. And they have the gear and accreditation to do the job.
    Thanks Josh, i have no issue with the cost, understand there is time involved, labour, overheads and consumables etc. What I have an issue with is the system was ok before the regas, now it "seems" worse (albeit my last reference point was a 42deg day), and some on here are suggesting that the "stop leak" is the culprit, I suspect this may be true and causing the PCV in the compressor to stick...

    Will go back to the service provider, job was done last April, I read the invoice, max 6 months limited wty. Will still give it a go...

  7. #37
    josh.huber Guest
    How many kilometres on that compressor?

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    How many kilometres on that compressor?
    True, that too 206,000km

  9. #39
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    About 5 years ago I did the valve in my wifes Golf. Over the last year it's started to get "sticky" again to the point where it was taking several kilometers and possibly a few high-rpm blasts to get it unstuck. Once unstuck it worked ok.

    On the weekend I thought I'd follow a hunch, so I removed the r134a and replaced it with a Hydrocarbon blend (close enough to Hychill minus-30). Thus far the results have been positive.

  10. #40
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    About 5 years ago I did the valve in my wifes Golf. Over the last year it's started to get "sticky" again to the point where it was taking several kilometers and possibly a few high-rpm blasts to get it unstuck. Once unstuck it worked ok.

    On the weekend I thought I'd follow a hunch, so I removed the r134a and replaced it with a Hydrocarbon blend (close enough to Hychill minus-30). Thus far the results have been positive.
    I hope you changed the oil too

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