D4 Coolant Leak, No Visible leak or in Oil! HELP!

**Tombie** · 11th February 2021, 07:49 AM

Good old post #3 for the win

D4 Coolant Leak, No Visible leak or in Oil! HELP!

**PerthDisco** · 11th February 2021, 10:09 AM

Interesting, it is my intention still to delete and blank EGRs and bypass the EGR cooler hoses by removing and joining them with some short length of pipe (what variety?, copper?). Ideally removing associated coolant pipe work but plumbing a bit of a mystery.

BrendanSwift · 11th February 2021, 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by Tombie

The EGRs can leak into the exhaust- you may not see the coolant if it’s going that way.

When you say it drops, do you mean - you top It up and each time it does this? How many times have you purged it?

We replaced the EGRs and we are not seeing any coolant leakages!

It was dropping about 4~5cm coolant earlier.

**Eric SDV6SE** · 11th February 2021, 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by Tombie

Good old post #3 for the win

Didn't realise it was a competition, I was (perhaps naively) under the impression that we are all just trying to help each other out.

But, good call and glad for the OP that the issue appears to be resolved.

**Tombie** · 11th February 2021, 02:54 PM

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Didn't realise it was a competition, I was (perhaps naively) under the impression that we are all just trying to help each other out.

But, good call and glad for the OP that the issue appears to be resolved.

Not in a competitive sense bud, just in a “got the root cause” sense.

Plus it’s nice to have diagnosis seemingly confirmed

**Tombie** · 11th February 2021, 02:55 PM

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Interesting, it is my intention still to delete and blank EGRs and bypass the EGR cooler hoses by removing and joining them with some short length of pipe (what variety?, copper?). Ideally removing associated coolant pipe work but plumbing a bit of a mystery.

Don’t add copper into this system. Stick with the metals already in play.

**PerthDisco** · 11th February 2021, 08:31 PM

Originally Posted by Tombie

Don’t add copper into this system. Stick with the metals already in play.

That would be largely plastic.

BrendanSwift · 15th February 2021, 01:06 PM

Bad news! Got the low coolant leak yet again after driving for less than 2mins in a car park!

This time can see coolant leaking down the sides of the bottle and down to the floor. Tank was empty when then warning came on. But I had checked the coolant level before starting (2mins earlier) it was at the low mark on the tank.

When the Low Coolant Level warning came on, the tank was empty. After about 90mins when we opened the lid, coolant flooded in but had to top up with about 500ml of water and to drive back to the garage again.

**DiscoJeffster** · 15th February 2021, 01:28 PM

I always say “don’t speak too soon”. Give it a week before you suggest you’ve fixed it. You jinxed yourself!

**discorevy** · 15th February 2021, 02:10 PM

Originally Posted by RavenD

My D4 (2010 3.0 SDV6 166k) had a Low Coolant warning, after over heating and few other crazy warnings (Gearbox fault, Engine oil monitor system fault, Stability control not available drive with care, Emergency brake not available) we towed it to the repairer.

Since then, replaced the coolant tower and tank, reset the faults. All are gone and didn't come back. BUT after running the engine for about 30mins we can see coolant level start to drop and the Low Coolant warning comes back on.

Thermostat is working. Not leaking coolant from the EGR valves. No coolant in the engine oil. No visible leaks or drips from the engine. Can't be 100% sure if there is coolant in the exhaust, the Carbon Monoxide readings are not conclusive.

Repairer's suggestion is to put in a new engine suspecting a head gasket issue when the engine over heated. This will cost a pretty penny! $$$$!

Any suggestions, ideas before we go down this path?

Cheers!

Originally Posted by discorevy

I've had to do head gaskets twice now , one on RRS 2.7, the other D4 , both neglected, both hadn't replaced the coolant bottle when they inevitably fail so hadn't heeded the warning when the top coolant outlet ( also inevitably ) let go .
Both had warped the heads in the middle letting combustion gas into cooling system ( and vice versa ), with one having to replace heads as they were too far gone.

With system full and bled , take it for a 5 minute drive then check by hand if the hoses have pressure, if so there is a very good chance the heads have warped.

Being an engine with lots of plastic components there might be a fair bit more to replace depending on how hot it got.

You can choose to ignore my first post if you like, as I'm aware it's big $ and I don't take pleasure in giving people these results, but the Ford Era Landys need a lot more " maintenance items " than others ( read top coolant outlet for one ) but you did state it had overheated , and in my experience the failed head gaskets, warped heads have been the result.
When a TK test or similar proves inconclusive , doing the 5 minute drive and checking the hoses usually gives a good indication.
God forbid a mechanic could actually give you a correct diagnosis

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