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Thread: 6sp versus 8sp transmission

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    EGTs - For what its worth.
    I had an EGT gauge in my D2a and watched it like a hawk when towing the 3.5T un-airodynamic brick - down to 2nd gear on some hills.

    For the same reasons, put an EGT gauge in the D4 2.7L 6 speed, and have never got above 650 in worst case scenarios - at the same time coolant never got above 107 - and yes at those levels I did quickly slow down a little just in case, but have stopped worrying for the D4 - completely different animal to the overworked D2. And yes I have always been approaching paranoid to ensure the coolant system remains in excellent working order.

    Now do I put an EGT gauge in for the new 3L 8 speed?
    3.0l has an egt probe factory

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    They’re both very good transmissions. But the 8 speed is better, including the TR.

    You should drive both, as it comes down to which is better value to you.
    TR is a simple update on earlier models to run the later response.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    3.0l has an egt probe factory
    Thanks Mike - I'd forgotten that - now to insert that bloody IID Tool into the new car - once I email Canada for the changeover code (free). Love their service!
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  4. #14
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    6sp versus 8sp transmission

    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Thanks Mike - I'd forgotten that - now to insert that bloody IID Tool into the new car - once I email Canada for the changeover code (free). Love their service!
    Get an adapter lead, 2 into 1 and use that.
    Keeps the tool from getting caught up and leaves an OBD port in stock location for servicing.

    Or better still, one of these…

    UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center

    And leave the GAP for diagnostics

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    Definately keep looking. D4s are not great at holding value.. Plenty come and go for sale.. This forum in the sales section has had some great buys over the years..

    When I was in the market for my car I had 70k and that put me only up to MY11 if I talked them down. I went to Mackay land Rover to test drive and the salesmen said no way mate. I asked why not. He said the 6 speed box ( in my price range) was the best box in the world. Unfortunately the 8 is even better!! He told me.. Don't ever drive the 8 it'll ruin life with the 6, that was in 2013 and I still have not driven the 8 speed.
    The fact that D4's, or most LR's for that matter, don't hold their value is a bad thing for those who bought them new ... but an absolute bargain for those picking them up second hand.
    The vehicles are packed full of features and are pretty cost effective as long as you are able to do most of the maintenance or repairs on the vehicle yourself.
    I nearly went across to the dark side and even started to look at Landcruisers!!
    The Landcruiser is a very capable vehicle, just like LR, but after looking around at them it becomes very evident that they are highly over-rated and ridiculously over-priced.
    I cannot believe the prices they are asking for LC's and particularly for those with very high kilometers.
    There seems to be a complete disconnect with reality out there in the 4x4 market place.
    The laws of 'supply & demand' just don't seem to apply when it comes to new 4x4 buyers and Toyotas.
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    EGTs - For what its worth.
    I had an EGT gauge in my D2a and watched it like a hawk when towing the 3.5T un-airodynamic brick - down to 2nd gear on some hills.

    For the same reasons, put an EGT gauge in the D4 2.7L 6 speed, and have never got above 650 in worst case scenarios - at the same time coolant never got above 107 - and yes at those levels I did quickly slow down a little just in case, but have stopped worrying for the D4 - completely different animal to the overworked D2. And yes I have always been approaching paranoid to ensure the coolant system remains in excellent working order.

    Now do I put an EGT gauge in for the new 3L 8 speed?
    Yes .. I'm much the same.
    I've got EGT, Transmission and Head temp gauges plus a boost pressure guage in the D2 and will find it difficult to go to a D4 3.0L without .. so I'll probably just put the EGT and Transmissions gauges back in the new one .. just for my own sanity.
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    They’re both very good transmissions. But the 8 speed is better, including the TR.

    You should drive both, as it comes down to which is better value to you.
    I'm tending to lean towards the 8 speed as, at the end of the day, my main concern for going to a 3.0L D4 is it's towing ability. (legally)
    If it wasn't for the fact that the Disco 2 TD5 can't legally tow the 3T van I probably wouldn't even change over ... I've been very happy with the TD5 and I know it inside out .. which means a lot when you're operating remotely.
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    3.0l has an egt probe factory
    Interesting .. I wasn't aware of that.
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Get an adapter lead, 2 into 1 and use that.
    Keeps the tool from getting caught up and leaves an OBD port in stock location for servicing.

    Or better still, one of these…

    UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center

    And leave the GAP for diagnostics
    Will this tool display EGT Mike?
    I looked through their gauges list I didn't see it.
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  10. #20
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    Nov 2018
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    Hobart, Tasmania
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapserv View Post
    Yes .. I'm much the same.
    I've got EGT, Transmission and Head temp gauges plus a boost pressure guage in the D2 and will find it difficult to go to a D4 3.0L without .. so I'll probably just put the EGT and Transmissions gauges back in the new one .. just for my own sanity.
    I use a Scanguage 11 (2) which unfortunately doesn't give me EGT but I have auto oil, and engine coolant temps amongst other things (voltage, boost etc). Would like to see EGT if a could get it, but am content knowing if I keep revs up around 2500, throttle not to the floor at low revs etc then the EGT's will be fine.

    What IS interesting is the speed at which the oil temps fluctuate. eg, here in Tassy two weeks ago i was on the mountainous West coast with the van and on many occasions down into 3rd and sometimes 2nd gear on the climbs. As soon as I started going down the the other side of the hills the temps quickly with 2 or 3 minutes dropped from (eg) around 105 engine coolant back to high 80's/early 90's, and trans from around 107 back to early/middle 90's Celcius. Ambient temp was middle twenties.

    I find the paddle shift auto is a real boon in this situation.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

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