Thread: Suspension Fault

Problem solved.

Went back and started again.
Filled the original air springs with air from my shed compressor. One of the bags has a definite leak. Suspect that was the one from the left front but not certain.
With the old pump on the bench I connected the motor to a battery and the old pump works.
Without the airlines connected I connected the pump to the disco wiring again and the pump didn't run.
Went back and checked the 20A fuse and that was ok. The 60A fusible link looks ok through the clear cap but was stuffed. I took the cap off and closely inspected the fuse but looked ok. checked with ohm meter and it showed an open circuit. Poked the fuse lightly with a probe and the fuse was no longer soldered at one end.

The good out of this is that with the suggestions from members I have learned a little about the suspension while broken down at home. I have just ordered an overhaul kit for my original pump and will return it to service and now will have a the new pump as a spare. have ordered valve block kits as well as there is a lot of dust in the pump canister. Time to change the Desiccant.

Thanks everyone for your help
very much appreciated.

Originally Posted by devo

Problem solved.

Went back and started again.
Filled the original air springs with air from my shed compressor. One of the bags has a definite leak. Suspect that was the one from the left front but not certain.
With the old pump on the bench I connected the motor to a battery and the old pump works.
Without the airlines connected I connected the pump to the disco wiring again and the pump didn't run.
Went back and checked the 20A fuse and that was ok. The 60A fusible link looks ok through the clear cap but was stuffed. I took the cap off and closely inspected the fuse but looked ok. checked with ohm meter and it showed an open circuit. Poked the fuse lightly with a probe and the fuse was no longer soldered at one end.

The good out of this is that with the suggestions from members I have learned a little about the suspension while broken down at home. I have just ordered an overhaul kit for my original pump and will return it to service and now will have a the new pump as a spare. have ordered valve block kits as well as there is a lot of dust in the pump canister. Time to change the Desiccant.

Thanks everyone for your help
very much appreciated.

Good one. Change EAS relay at same time as fuse.

Originally Posted by devo

Problem solved.

Went back and started again.
Filled the original air springs with air from my shed compressor. One of the bags has a definite leak. Suspect that was the one from the left front but not certain.
With the old pump on the bench I connected the motor to a battery and the old pump works.
Without the airlines connected I connected the pump to the disco wiring again and the pump didn't run.
Went back and checked the 20A fuse and that was ok. The 60A fusible link looks ok through the clear cap but was stuffed. I took the cap off and closely inspected the fuse but looked ok. checked with ohm meter and it showed an open circuit. Poked the fuse lightly with a probe and the fuse was no longer soldered at one end.

The good out of this is that with the suggestions from members I have learned a little about the suspension while broken down at home. I have just ordered an overhaul kit for my original pump and will return it to service and now will have a the new pump as a spare. have ordered valve block kits as well as there is a lot of dust in the pump canister. Time to change the Desiccant.

Thanks everyone for your help
very much appreciated.

I have had a very slow leaking front airbag for several months and i recently had the car throw a fault something along the lines of not exhausting air pressure. I did notice that when i stopped the car it didnt fart no more and wouldnt do its levelling thing. 6 months before that i had replaced my dissicant as the cap on my pump housing blew off

Admittingly I live in the tropics and we have had an above average wet season with several months of humidity in the 90% most days but this is a pic from my recent issue
20200510_110036.jpg the rusty 1 was on the bottom closest to the pump.....

I can only assume moisture enters the system when you have a leak in the air system and the filters in the dissicant housing take the brunt of it. I did also notice a very fine powder in my front valve block when i re - oring it. I emptied the dissicant into a sieve and filtered out the powder and then just baked the beads on a tray in the oven and topped up with some spares that i have.

cheers Bulletman

Just changed out my desiccant as the car hadn't been farthing but my amber light continues. No drop overnight, front and back valve blocks replaced in the last year. Any other suggestions?

Originally Posted by Parso

Just changed out my desiccant as the car hadn't been farthing but my amber light continues. No drop overnight, front and back valve blocks replaced in the last year. Any other suggestions?

If you have a D3 check your brake light switch. mine was working but only intermittently so took a few goes to see that the brake lights didnt always come on when i pressed the peddle. The is some sort of canbus feed that goes thru the brakelight switch that faults the suspension. You can get them cheap at a Ford dealer as the territory and i think some model falcon use the same switch.

Im not sure if the D4 is the same or if that was rectified.

Bulletman

Originally Posted by Bulletman

If you have a D3 check your brake light switch. mine was working but only intermittently so took a few goes to see that the brake lights didnt always come on when i pressed the peddle. The is some sort of canbus feed that goes thru the brakelight switch that faults the suspension. You can get them cheap at a Ford dealer as the territory and i think some model falcon use the same switch.

Im not sure if the D4 is the same or if that was rectified.

Bulletman

I have a spare I'll throw it in and see

Originally Posted by Bulletman

If you have a D3 check your brake light switch. mine was working but only intermittently so took a few goes to see that the brake lights didnt always come on when i pressed the peddle. The is some sort of canbus feed that goes thru the brakelight switch that faults the suspension. You can get them cheap at a Ford dealer as the territory and i think some model falcon use the same switch.

Im not sure if the D4 is the same or if that was rectified.

Bulletman

Put my spare in but sadly the fault continues to come on after about 30 seconds

Originally Posted by Parso

Put my spare in but sadly the fault continues to come on after about 30 seconds

You need to read the code, that will reveal what is going on.