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Thread: Tow ball tongue replacement - slightly longer tongue - is it an issue?

  1. #11
    josh.huber Guest
    And no. Don't drill holes in it.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Drawbar

    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    And no. Don't drill holes in it.
    Thansk for the info. It was mostly a rhetorical question...

    And I've already come to the same conclusion! The main reason for a 2nd drawbar was to avoid swapping between my camper hitch fitting (O'Brien coupling) and the ball for my box trailer.
    Camper = large, heavy loads (weight plus shock loads on rough roads)
    Box trailer = much smaller loads (green waste to the tip)

    So, I think I'll use my new H-R bar with the ball fitted for my box trailer, and keep the camper trailer coupling on the original LR drawbar.
    Didn't think it was going to be this complicated - but I guess it's not. But I know a lot more about my hitch/drawbar than I did before!

    Thanks for the input, team!
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Whyalla, SA
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    Tow ball tongue replacement - slightly longer tongue - is it an issue?

    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    Surely it all depends on the weight being added..

    I have a super long draw bar that I use just for the bike rack. Helps it clear the tail gate.. the longer the bar the more weight on the rear axle.. But if your talking a 1t trailer with 100kg ball weight. The extra length shouldn't cause concern aslong as it doesn't allow the trailer to over load the axle.. if you were close to the 250 kg mark and started making it longer then more thinking is required.

    That spec says "recommended" I read it as if you go over this you'll need to re-check your ball weights effect on the car.
    The longer the bar, the more leverage at its mounting point. Which with the removable hitch could easily overload and damage the housing.

    Not just at the axle.

  4. #14
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    The longer the bar, the more leverage at its mounting point. Which with the removable hitch could easily overload and damage the housing.

    Not just at the axle.
    Yeah but it's acting on the same parts of the housing as before.
    So it comes back to the weight you apply to it.
    I know it's not the point, but I would back the housing to outlast my replacement Hayman Reece insert. It looks like it's made from sheet metal. It's 3.5t rated bit I wouldn't put any more then a 750kg box trailer on it.

    And wouldn't a Mitch hitch hang out more then a std bar?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Mitch hitch doesn’t load the removable hitch mount in the rear frame in the same fashion.

    I’m talking about the clip in receiver, not the tongue.

    That slot in the chassis is the place I wouldn’t want strong leverage on.

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