OldBushie
Hi Chris, in most cases resetting the BMS is not necessary, as you will literally be carrying out a HARD RESET by disconnecting the battery to replace it.Originally Posted by cjc_td5
Only difference is, while the old battery is out, link the positive ( + ) and negative ( - ) battery clamps together.
You usually can not get them to come close enough to touch, so use some wire or just link them with a single jumper lead.
This action, most cases, will cause a hard reset, and your BMS will simple start from scratch.
SPECIAL NOTE OF CAUTION, if you have a dual battery setup, disconnect the negative ( - ) lead from every battery in the vehicle, before carrying out a HARD RESET.
If after carrying out a HARD RESET and fitting the new battery, you still get "Low Battery, Start Motor" messages, you will then need to use an IID tool to reset the BMS.
Fossicker
SubscriberHi Tombie. Looking at where the battery is located, sitting under the back sill, what is the procedure of swapping out. I cannot find any practical info even on youtube. Do I wiggle the battery? Does the positive lead cluster move out of the way? Can I rotate the back of the battery out to clear the rear cill. Since I haven't seen a battery taken out of a LR4 I am hesitant lest I cause some damage! Thanks
OldBushie
Neg off
Positive off and to centreline of vehicle.
Lift leading edge up and forwards.
ChatterBox
SubscriberBattery died yesterday. Off shopping tomorrow. What is best recommendation for D3 TDV6?
Battery World and Autozone have Varta for $409.
Who sells SSB?
Current battery was a Century 760CCA so a bit under spec I think.
OldBushie
Try Goodchild!
YarnMaster
I had new battery fitted under warranty just on 2 years and 45K ago. Even after a good run I still keep getting the "Low battery start engine" warning. Is this indicating the alternator is not charging enough or that the battery is on it's last legs?
I've got a Gap tool but haven't used it seriously since buying it when I bought the vehicle new just over 4 years ago. Can anyone guide an ageing thick head as to the procedure to go through to check these things? It's got a dual battery Intervolt system and a read out gauge on the dash which shows charging at around 14v and 4 amps first thing in the morning when I go out for the paper which quickly drops to 13v and 1amp.
Cheers.
AlanH.
LordRover
SupporterDoesn't the D4 now have AGM batteries fitted?
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
ChatterBox
SubscriberSorry I hijacked this thread seeking D3 information which still can take lead acid.
LordRover
SupporterSorry missed you were talking about a D3 - Varta is a good battery but the 830CCA is a little light on - I would go the 912CCA version.
However Varta is expensive and there are other batteries such as Supercharge are better value for money BUT are not better batteries and will not last as long as the Varta.
I bought a 9?? CCA Supercharge just before Xmas for just under $300 and I would expect it to last about 80% of the time of the equivalent Varta but is a lot cheaper.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
ChatterBox
SubscriberI did and very helpful. They didn’t have the SSB I needed and I needed a battery there and then so I’ve gone for a Bosch AGM 92ah 850CCA but he showed me it measuring 1048CCA on their test unit. More aligned with what LR recommend.
Anyways an AGM for less price of lead acid equal at major retailers so here goes. Good to know Goodchild exist for future reference very helpful.
I’d been getting the bong and Special Programs Unavailable warning for past months a sign of inevitable battery weakness but the end was swift from a jump start on Friday to nothing Saturday.
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