Nope, that belongs to BMW.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
20 years of the BMW iDrive: the story..
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Nope, that belongs to BMW.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
20 years of the BMW iDrive: the story..
I thought I read somewhere that the ZF 8 speed design made it necessary for such a type of shifter.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
A few months ago I asked Hobart L/Rover parts dept how many they'd sold and they looked at me with a blank look on their faces.
As well, Alan at L/Rover 4WD spares here at 7 Mile Beach (Hobart) says he's never sold one, and he sells LR and RR parts to all over Australia.
There are heaps of D4's, RR's and Jaguars in Hobart with that selector, so the problem can't be THAT bad!
Likewise, the dipstick "issue" does not appear to be a huge issue relative to the population of the 3.0 engine.
If you're searching on Carsales and wondering why there's no D4s past 2014, it's because in 2015 LR changed their designation to just "Discovery", which Carsales followed, so for 2015 and 2016 models you have to search for "Discovery" and then cboose Series 4.
SO they copied it from elsewhere?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
I thought they never did that, they were the innovators....[tonguewink]
The Indie I went to for 20yrs has a different story about the pop up shifter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Discodicky
The big issue is if it does play up its often a show stopper.
As for the dipstick, we have been through this many times on here, its really technology for technologys sake,just something else to go wrong, nothing else.
If I was going again in that year mark. I'd go a 2.7 and make sure it's had it's upgrades. As far as oil pump etc.. The 8 sp would be nice. But it's not essential. The 6 is nice enough and if it's been serviced doesn't give to much drama.
I've got a 3.0l diesel and I love it. I'm at 270ks these days and I baby it with maintenance because when I'm in the seat it gets what it gets.
Electronic dipsticks save engines. Think of them like forums. They help you find out you'll have an issue before you have an issue.
My 3 litre has had most of the usual issues. Manifolds etc. At the moment I'm pricing injectors just because the back of the car is getting dirtier faster and I think the idle sounds rougher then it used to.
No oil pump issue in the D4 2.7.
Or crank issues,or manifold issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
Although the 6 speed can be more problematic than the 8 speed,and the 8 speed is nicer.
And the 2.7,with a BAS tune,does go more than well enough for the average Joe,even towing a block of flats.
I have to agree, a 2.7 with BAS tune goes well enough, it's no where as good as a 3.0l!Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
Had our 2013 D4 3.0l 8spd since new, 150,000km. Tow a 9m 2500kg boat up and down the coastal highway with the odd dirt road/track/ corrugation excursion and a little beach work now and then.
Have used very reputable workshop up till last year averaging $1000 a year servicing with one bad year at $3500 when suspension/brakes where done. I have absolutely no complaints and extremely satisfied with service and value for money. It tows my boat effortlessly and is just a pleasure to drive and is dependable. post COVID/2020 I’m doing more myself due to $$$.
Below.
- rear hatch latch actuator replaced twice (first time LR part, Second time I bought the $30 Ford mondeo eBay equivalent as replacement &top tip - install a rear hatch emergency pull cable on lower door and tuck in trim surround as soon as it starts playing up, as it’s a bitch to get to and fix if you can’t open it the back doors -heaps of YouTube examples)
- drivers door lock actuator replaced twice (I paid $750 for the first one using LR part, and just did the second swap with $20 eBay Range Rover cheapie myself( YouTube powerfulkid )
- front and rear suspension bushing at 100’000lm as they were making noise - it was cheaper at shop to replace whole control arms, rather than labour to press bush out and in. This one hurt and with disc rotors/pads I think it came to $2500 at shop.
- coolant sensor in overflow bottle stops working and “low coolant” codes, sensor not replaceable but the whole bottle just slides out and in and was about $100 from memory.
- I do oil and filter every 10,000km myself now
/ I do fuel filter when i start getting codes for water in feul ( which seems to be whenever I do a trip and use those self service pods in central Qld)
And that’s it - not bad for 8 years in a highly optioned performance vehicle I reckon
- I want to get the ZF8 serviced but don’t currently have the coin for lifeguard fluid or shop rates - so looking closely at the recent posts on the alternatives.
Any obd2 scanner does a reasonable job of looking at codes and resetting them and getting out of restricted performance mode (yellow triangle). I use a eBay $20 wifi module and my phone.
The engine/box are awesome- but there will be limitations to what we can do. Body off frame to get to turbos etc….