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Thread: D3 & D4 true running costs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    D3 & D4 true running costs

    Good morning all

    I just wanted to reach out and get some real feed back on the running costs for their discovery.
    I keep reading on Facebook discovery groups (I know it can be a lot of keyboard warriors) that the ownership of these vehicles is expected to be between 2k > 5k per year.

    Now, I have owned my D3 (V6 Petrol) for four years and I haven't experienced this running cost on my D3. I must admit that when I purchased the D3 there was an issue with the rear diff which was repaired under warranty but I haven't read much on diff issues. The biggest thing I have read has been the famous crank issue.

    My D3 has covered 160,000km which I have placed 65,000km and during that time the only thing that has failed me is a hormonic pulley which I changed out myself and the park brake module failure that I had my mechanic rebuild with a kit and it's working fine for the time being.

    I have my D3 serviced regularly from a good local mechanic as I used to use Landy independents but I found them (well the two I used, Perth) not be all that great but this was my experience.

    The only current issue I have with my D3 is an intermittent suspension warning light, which I'm in the process of tracking down as I've already serviced the compressor and I don't have a IID tool to check the codes (its on my purchase list) but last time it was read it came up with "slow pressure increase" I think?? if anyone has came across this issue then please shot through anything to check out.

    Anyway, just thought I would reach out for some feed back as I can't see how such high running costs per year can be sustainable for any vehicle never mind the mighty D3/D4.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Not sure about the "reaching out" but you only have to ask for others experiences. Ours is good so far with our 2016 D4 which has just passed a 100K. No high expenditure except tyres, cranking battery replaced under warranty, EPB replaced at massive cost to LR, drivers seat replaced with an electric version (D4 is the cheap version as I can do without a gadget telling me I'm wandering about or there's cars behind me etc) as the original kept slowing going down at the rear, again done under warranty.
    Nothing for a long time now and although we have after warranty insurance here's hoping we don't have any problems forcing us to see how worthwhile it is.
    Good luck.
    AlanH.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Perth
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    I've done 150K in my D4 MY16 and fuel & servicing costs have worked out at 24c/km. No major untimely services required in that time.
    Rod

    D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Depends on what you do yourself vs what it costs to pay someone else to do. Been doing my own stuff up to now so only a few hundred each year but getting lazy so will start paying people so costs will go up.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    Had mine for 9.5yrs,and it was by far the most maintenance and repair hungry vehicle i have ever owned,thats in over 40 yrs of driving.

    I had the work done at the local Indie,they were very good,and costs were reasonable.

    If you can do the work yourself,you will save a lot of $.

  6. #6
    josh.huber Guest
    I'd need to check the paper work. But I've got ours in the budget at $5k a year, servicing and repairs, I have hit that and missed that. I do all my own work. I shop around on parts when I can. But it's 10 years old and does 20k per year and in my case drives like new, everything except the boot space is brand new. I do think it's maintenance hungry. However I've never walked touch wood. The petrol versions would be much cheaper.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Not following these "maintenance" hungry comments - had mine for 11 years and 170,000km - been the most reliable vehicle, least maintenance vehicle I have owned. Nothing it needs is any different to other vehicles I have owned in the past - most cam belts are 100,000km - my car 160,000km - I do oil and filter every 10,000km - brakes are currently sitting on 130,000km but will need doing soon.

    Definitely not maintenance hungry - and while mine has done a number of long outback trips, the reality is most of its km is around down.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    I bought mine at 102,000 from a Canberra Holden dealer who gave me all the service invoices kept by previous (lady) owner in Sydney. I reckon she sold it due to excessively high m/ance costs with her local garage.
    A few examples: All brake discs replaced at 40k, then at 62k replaced again. A "tune-up" every service (Diesel!!) costing $138.00 each time!! Fuel filter replaced every 10k, as was air filter element. All brake pads replaced at 81k with rear discs machined and again just prior me buying it.
    $78 for the door key battery & a "re-program" (which is not necessary!) ($6 from local battery shop) And on it goes.

    Charged her $320 each for very "average" tyres; wheel balance every service, and on it goes.

    I have no doubt she tells all her friends at every dinner party just what a bas..rd of a car it was.

    Since buying it I immediately changed the auto oil and changed engine oil/filter.
    I service every 10k myself.

    Replaced the LHR door lock which was u/s.

    Changed the coolant distribution body and did a MAF clean etc, had the belts changed early during COVID last year as Justin was quiet and they were approaching 7 yrs old.

    Have since changed the auto oil again due to towing etc. as I am a bit anal and tend to go a bit over the top about servicing and preventative m/ance.
    Car done 155,000.

    Getting close to front pad change, just got the Akebono's from the USA. Discs are fine.
    Car drives beautifully, and about to replace lower control arms (front) as the rear bush is noisy.

    The point I am trying to make is that this car has not been expensive to own for me, but due to seemingly over "enthusiastic" Indie in Sydney, the previous owner most likely sold it due to the exorbitant servicing costs, some of which I consider were not necessary.
    Therefore, when people complain that their car/boat/m-cycle was grossly expensive to maintain, it may have not been as a fault of the vehicle but due to the "attitude" of the Repairer who saw the owner as a milking cow.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Whyalla, SA
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    MY11...

    No servicing costs for first 100k (Corporate)

    Since then, replaced 1 coolant line that was incorrectly installed by dealer and rubbed through.

    Other than that, 12k services at home.


    Only other costs- consumables; hydro bushes (done once at 70k), tyres, fuel etc.


    Upgrades are a different cost base

  10. #10
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Our D3 is roughly 27c/km. That's all-in without rego and insurance and I do all the work on it.

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