Thread: 2.7 TDV6 EGR coolant system delete

Righto…

The old EGR cooler arrived during the week and I’ve measured up the blank and waiting on quote to cut.

Still working on the cooling lines as far as fittings required to remove coolant circuit.

For comparison, TD5 plate and TDV6

Hi rehashing this a bit. Have a coolant leak somewhere and thinking may be cooler. I have done the EGR delete but not coolant blanking.
Now are people removing the egr coolers or just blanking and removing excess coolant pipes? If so how are people actually doing it. Any pics would be great.

Originally Posted by CraigE

Hi rehashing this a bit. Have a coolant leak somewhere and thinking may be cooler. I have done the EGR delete but not coolant blanking.
Now are people removing the egr coolers or just blanking and removing excess coolant pipes? If so how are people actually doing it. Any pics would be great.

Check first the plastic block coolant hose fitting on passenger side behind turbo pipe work. It’s a job to get to.

It deteriorates into a crumbly substance and weaps. It will fall off eventually. Close relative of the plastic coolant fitting in the valley.

There’s no definitive EGR cooler delete or bypass as yet.

Cant see any leaks from around the t piece. Only replaced it about 8 months ago so will be annoyed if it is as was nothing wrong with the old one. I am thinking maybe egr cooler. Might have to do the hose delete for these.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Check first the plastic block coolant hose fitting on passenger side behind turbo pipe work. It’s a job to get to.

It deteriorates into a crumbly substance and weaps. It will fall off eventually. Close relative of the plastic coolant fitting in the valley.

There’s no definitive EGR cooler delete or bypass as yet.

Mike, did you ever get this completed? Looking at doing similar. I think one of my coolers may be leaking coolant only very slightly into the exhaust as cant find any leaks and no apparent coolant in the oil. About 200ml every 500kms. Cant smell it burning so not leaking onto the motor. Did you join hoses or just remove them altogether and blank the coolant lines? The blanks to the exhaust look like they may be similar size to the inlet blanks.
Cheers
Craig

Originally Posted by Tombie

Righto…

The old EGR cooler arrived during the week and I’ve measured up the blank and waiting on quote to cut.

Still working on the cooling lines as far as fittings required to remove coolant circuit.

For comparison, TD5 plate and TDV6

How many caps did you need all up to complete this? I am assuming you would need 2 at the t piece near the thermostat area and 2 each to cap the coolers? Is that correct.

Originally Posted by twr7cx

After some disassembly I found the actual cause of why the hose had managed to contact and rub on the serpentine belt pulley below it.



This Norma RSGU 27 pipe retaining clip has a larger internal diameter than the external diameter of the hose it secures in place. This allows the hose to drop lower than ideal if it's not all assembled exactly right (which it clearly wasn't after I did the timing belt - well done me...).
Changing this to a smaller pipe retaining clip resolves this and ensures the hose is held in place high enough. I had a spare size 25 on hand which proved this theory, but the internal diameter was smaller than ideal for the hoses external diameter. Size 26 < NORMA RSGU 1. 26/15 W5 | NORMA Group > would be the sweet spot.


The Engine Cooling - TDV6 2.7L Diesel - Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding procedure in the Land Rover workshop manual doesn't refer to the bleed screw point on the EGR cooler circuit at all in the bleeding process which added to my suspicion that this coolant circuit is solely for the EGR cooler purpose making me more comfortable to eliminate it.




Followed the two hoses from the EGR cooling circuit, down to where they connect to two seperate black plastic t-pieces near the thermostat of the bottom radiator hose assembly. The two hoses and barbs are different sizes to each other.

I found a 19mm (or 3/4") blanking cap (left over spare that I keep on hand for my D2a TD5's behind the turbocharger water outlet) was the correct fitment for the smaller and a 25mm (or 1") for the larger. Tried all the industrial and hose specialists locally and only one had a 25mm blanking cap in stock - it's fairly thin rubber and I'm not very comfortable with it's quality (it looks like a door stopper to me!). I've ordered some better quality replacements online - Samco Sport silicone units:
25mm - Silicone Blanking Cap 25mm Bore Black - Samco Sport
19mm - Silicone Blanking Cap 19mm Bore Black - Samco Sport



Alternatively you could possibly purchase a new right angle joiner for the smaller and a straight joiner for the larger one. For the larger t-piece the two inline connection barbs are definitely larger than the 25mm of the t-off connection barb. Not sure about the smaller unit but looks like the three barbs are all the same size for that one.

For now I've left the bulk of the piping in place incase I need to revert back.


So next up is to now stop the exhaust gas flowing into the EGR coolers - as eventually these will corrode through and fail.

Spoke to Pete Bell at Bell Auto Service who provided the EGR Deactivation Patch and he's not sure if issues will be caused by the entire removal of the EGR cooler units as they leave them in place to assist with their MOT inspection compliance. Reading some threads on here I found:


D3 EGR Valve Removal Latest Options?

So it's likely I can just get some of the Td5 EGR delete blanking plates with suitably longer bolts, and slip them in between the exhaust manifold outlet and EGR cooler stopping the exhaust flow into the EGR cooler but retaining the units in place to avoid upset to the electronics (discorevy also suggested leaving them in place as they form a bit of a heatshield for the exhaust system).

You can see and access the drivers side EGR cooler very well if you remove the air box and plastic covers around the brake booster. Removing and joining the coolant lines would not be hard. The other side is not so easy.

Originally Posted by CraigE

Mike, did you ever get this completed? Looking at doing similar. I think one of my coolers may be leaking coolant only very slightly into the exhaust as cant find any leaks and no apparent coolant in the oil. About 200ml every 500kms. Cant smell it burning so not leaking onto the motor. Did you join hoses or just remove them altogether and blank the coolant lines? The blanks to the exhaust look like they may be similar size to the inlet blanks.
Cheers
Craig

Plates currently sitting with Laser cutting company.... Havent had time to go further at the moment, Mums dealing with Cancer and works flat out.