REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I keep bashing on about this and maybe I’m wrong but I propose that the crank breaks after the bearings shag out and maybe rotate but only sometimes as many just get the death rattle. I guess 8/10 owners don’t pick up on change of note and drive on till it seizes at a bearing and snaps the crank. Or if it happens at 100kph it’s pretty instantaneous.
Someone said something about inherent weakness in V6 engines....
Really? How many V6 engines are pulling road trains around this country? I've not heard of any exploding.
Truckies comments welcome.
No one has brought up the suggestion that the broken cranks are subject to a manufacturing problem/defect such as machining/heat treatment etc which was recognised/remedied and LR is aware of the range of engine Serial numbers which are applicable?
No doubt there'd be an LR Service News relating to this if in fact it was the problem.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
For sure it’s double the time of a normal start up after an oil and filter change for me but measured in seconds though.
Through this learning curve I’ve been conscious of how much cranking on startup. With the latest battery I put in it’s semi-instantaneous. In the darkest coldest winter morning I maybe sense it cranking before starting.
I do think for those in colder parts of Vic would be advised to change glow plugs on older cars.
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