Thread: Door lock actuator problem

On my D3 for the same door I had to replace the cable from the internal lock to the actuator as well as the actuator. I suggest you check that cable with the door card/trim removed to make sure it is operating the actuator fully when you manually operate the internal handle and lock.

thx Narranga I have previously replaced one of those cables but that's not my problem here.

Attached is the pic of the wiring plug that feeds the actuator and could not find amongst the 5 pins a power supply at all which seems to be my problem. Checked the fuse boxes both underfoot inside and next to the battery cannot find a problematic fuse either.

With all the doors closed, still getting a message saying the rear pass side door is open. surely one of these wires should have a power supply to de/activate the lock mechanism. more fishing around tomorrow i suspect. Indies are fully booked for two weeks.

Originally Posted by shamirj

surely one of these wires should have a power supply to de/activate the lock mechanism.

Indeed it does, but only for a second while trying to run the lock motor.

The rear lock pinout is :
1 - GND
2 - nil
3 - nil
4 - Door switch sense (switches to gnd in the latch)
5 - Lock motor common
6 - C Lock motor
7 - D Lock motor

The lock module is a LIN bus unit and supposedly 895mm (cable length) away from the lock in the rear doors. Checking the connector diagram it looks like the module is in the door about midpoint of the door card.

The door switch sense (pin 4) is wired back to the CJB though. So you should see some form of voltage on that wire and shorting it to ground should tell you the door is shut.

The door modules are powered from fuses 39 (Rear LH door) and 44 (Rear RH door) but they won't affect the door position switch.

Originally Posted by shamirj

Indies are fully booked for two weeks.

The main Indie around here is booked out for 3 months

Anyway,good luck with the issue.

thanks BradC, much appreciated

1. noticed something which is not working this switch - so when depressed on driver side it sounds like it opens all doors however when locking does nothing (no sound) dead. On the same switch on the pass side dead on both un/lock positions which leads me to think its a fuse problem somewhere

2. made a list of all the fuses which mention central door lock (CDL) of which there is 6 to investigate today, pull out and actually test to measure current flow through the fuse then replace. that will then rule out any possible fuse issue.

I am also getting another new actuator sent to me but am now doubting it is the actuator. bit frustrated as i cannot lock my doors. In fact strangely have made things worse because originally only one door (pass rear) would not lock, now with the new actuator no doors are locking. Replacing the old unit did not revert to the original problem either. wish me luck...

just ran a test on all 6 fuses pulled each one out and ran a pos and neg with a lamp and the current is flowing - all fuses are good. so will investigate the door actuator again unless something is missing like a loom plug not connected (unlikely but who knows). Might look further into PIN 4 for the actuator loom. so frustrating, why couldn't it be something as simple as a door actuator.

Originally Posted by shamirj

thanks BradC, much appreciated

1. noticed something which is not working this switch - so when depressed on driver side it sounds like it opens all doors however when locking does nothing (no sound) dead. On the same switch on the pass side dead on both un/lock positions which leads me to think its a fuse problem somewhere

2. made a list of all the fuses which mention central door lock (CDL) of which there is 6 to investigate today, pull out and actually test to measure current flow through the fuse then replace. that will then rule out any possible fuse issue.

I am also getting another new actuator sent to me but am now doubting it is the actuator. bit frustrated as i cannot lock my doors. In fact strangely have made things worse because originally only one door (pass rear) would not lock, now with the new actuator no doors are locking. Replacing the old unit did not revert to the original problem either. wish me luck...

Um, silly question maybe, but have you thought that maybe the switch in the drivers door is faulty on the "lock" side? Would seem obvious to me to check this switch first...also check your main battery status...