Brake pedal/switch not pushed enough or starting to play up.
Nothing too fancy.
Its happened a few random times over the last couple of weeks to the D4 - MY16 TDV6 and just hit 69K km.
Hop in the car, hit the start button, all the dash lights come on and a couple of seconds later everything goes dead. Read faults on GAP Tool - none found.
Only way to get going so far is (I think) is to switch off/lock up for a couple of minutes then restart and she fires and off we go as if nothing was wrong.
Off to Dazza on Thursday for pending pre Sydney and back? service, and any prior experience/thoughts from the wise would be appreciated - surely can't be something as simple as the brake switch?
Cheers
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Brake pedal/switch not pushed enough or starting to play up.
Nothing too fancy.
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberNot convinced. If the start/stop button is pressed and the brake pedal switch isn’t triggered, the ignition stays on - It doesn’t turn itself back off again as described without you pressing the start/stop button again. So unless the OP isn’t clearly describing the behaviour, I think it’s a different issue.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I vote brake pedal switch. Mine does similar to what you describe if the brake has been pumped with the car off so it’s firm and doesn’t get enough range of moment to properly depress the switch. Have to really stomp down on it.
Yep - I'll go with the brake pedal switch as well. Mine did exactly the same a bit over a year ago. At the same time, I was seeing a few other random faults. I had a spare brake pedal switch in the glove box, so I swapped it out and all of the problems disappeared and have not returned.
I still carry a spare brake pedal switch in the glove box - they are cheap from any FORD dealer. Can't remember who it was who told me about keeping one of these spare in the car - I think it might have been when I was over at Melrose a few years back. Bloody good advice though.
Sorted.
It was the owner, clearly soft weak leg muscles, poor old fellow.
But... I replaced the brake switch anyway and all seems well
P.S and $20 for a OEM which in this case means a FoMoCo one with the "FoMoCo" removed off the back of the switch. Made in Malta
Regards
Daz
 ChatterBox
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						SubscriberD4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Interesting that these Brake Switch failures are a duplication of occurrences that occur with the 1950s MG TF and TD classics. The work around that resolves the issue is to install a relay that the switch energises. Add a diode across the relay coil and failures are done and dusted.
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