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Thread: 140NM Wheel Nut Tightening Torque

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pippin View Post
    This nutty debate has probably run its course.
    I'm all torqued out, nutting more to say, in fact this thread has nearly caused a sense of humour failure..

  2. #52
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    My thoughts - 140Nm is probably a figure that is been set to be safe for both dry and lubricated. A M16 bolt with course thread (2mm) and 10.9 grade (typical wheel stud grade I believe) has a torque of around 350Nm and that's lightly oiled figures too. Dropping down to an 8.8 and its still 250Nm. The disco thread pitch is 1.25 I believe so the fine pitch should lower the torque required for the same clamping force, and I can't find any specific info on that thread pitch through various fastener manufactures. .
    Metric Bolts - Tightening Torques
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
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  3. #53
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    Whilst reading this thread I’ve been thinking ‘140 is pretty high, I’m not sure if my 1/2” TW goes that high’ - I’ve got it set at 100.

    Apparently there’s a difference between NM and Foot LB! That’s probs the reason why I’ve had it set at 100. Good thing I rechecked before torquing the wheel nuts today!
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  4. #54
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    Lots of good discussion here but my initial observation was that LR put the anti sieze on my studs either in the factory (most likely) or at the dealership before it was delivered to me. I was wondering is anyone else found this when they took delivery of their new car. I am well aware of the differences in torque settings required for wet and dry threads. I was wondering if the 140NM was the specification for wet or for dry threads. I think the takeaway from this discussion is that the 140NM is probably a compromise torque that is going to work for either wet or dry threads.
    Mike

    MY14 TDV6, ARB Bar, Fyrlyt's, 18" Compomotove Rims. 265/60/18 BFG KO2's, Front Runner roof rack, removable rear false floor.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post
    Whilst reading this thread I’ve been thinking ‘140 is pretty high, I’m not sure if my 1/2” TW goes that high’ - I’ve got it set at 100.

    Apparently there’s a difference between NM and Foot LB! That’s probs the reason why I’ve had it set at 100. Good thing I rechecked before torquing the wheel nuts today!
    One Foot Pound = 1.356 Newton Metres
    So your 100 foot pound of torque on your studs was spot on to achieve the recommended spec of 140 Newton Metres.
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffoir View Post
    One Foot Pound = 1.356 Newton Metres
    So your 100 foot pound of torque on your studs was spot on to achieve the recommended spec of 140 Newton Metres.
    Actually 3.1% low. Most spring type torque wrenches are +/-4% accurate, so possibly 7% low. I normally round up if in lb-ft. Luckily all my torque wrenches are in NM as well.

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