Thread: Question for owners of high km D4's

Originally Posted by Discodicky

I'm not sold on aluminium radiators. A few years ago I built a very fast Jaguar Mk2 3.8 litre which was as quick/quicker than an E-type up to 100 mph, and fitted an aluminium radiator (triple row).
I believe it was Chinese, beautifully made, however the top outlet was slightly incorrect shape and I had to modify the top radiator hose.

However I noted that after sitting for say, longer than an hour or more, the top tank was still very hot, which led me to realise it didn't dissipate the heat nearly as quickly (efficiently??) as the original 2 row copper core type.
The engine also ran around 5 deg hotter with the ally rad at low speeds (ie, low air flow thru rad) which I confirmed with a master temp gauge.

So I went back to the original unit which was of course several Kg heavier but no other disadvantage.

There’s radiators and there’s radiators.

Flow, core design, fin profile etc all play a part. Sounds like the replacement wasn’t as good in a few of these aspects.

There was a test done a while back, and whilst it seems counter intuitive- all other factors being equal - alloy dissipates heat better.

Mainly because whilst the core is copper, the solder etc is not and retards heat dissipation.

Originally Posted by Tombie

There’s radiators and there’s radiators.

Flow, core design, fin profile etc all play a part. Sounds like the replacement wasn’t as good in a few of these aspects.

There was a test done a while back, and whilst it seems counter intuitive- all other factors being equal - alloy dissipates heat better.

Mainly because whilst the core is copper, the solder etc is not and retards heat dissipation.

Copper is better at conducting heat than aluminum, but aluminum is able to radiate the heat into the air better than copper because of its lower density.

Aluminium is also lighter and cheaper,that is probably the reason most fluid coolers(oil,coolant,etc) and intercoolers in auto use these days are alloy.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I checked and AF sell replacement radiators at a very reasonable price but don’t seem to carry complete hose sets anymore.

I purchased a nissens radiator from AF and the cost was very good especially with freight, if you go down that road make sure you get the pins that hold the I/C to the rad as they break very easily on removal, plus the rubbers and the pins that hold the top in place, they dont come as part of the radiator. Also the thermostat housing on the later tdv6 model D3 is different to the earlier D3, the thermostat housing has 1 extra hose tail.
Think early is 5 and later is 6 or its 6 and 7 I cant remember but make sure you check vin numbers as they are different... yes I learnt the hard way. The change over is pretty straightforward.

Cheers Bulletman

Originally Posted by scarry

Copper is better at conducting heat than aluminum, but aluminum is able to radiate the heat into the air better than copper because of its lower density.

Aluminium is also lighter and cheaper,that is probably the reason most fluid coolers(oil,coolant,etc) and intercoolers in auto use these days are alloy.

Knew someone would go there

Copper is, the solder holding everything together isn’t…. And actually insulates reducing efficiency.

It also plays nicer in seaside areas and salted roads.

So the work continues on my D4 with the engine out and a number of the bits and pieces replaced including the offending intake manifold that started this off.
Checking the crankshaft end play (thrust bearing wear) was just done as one of the checks to see how the motor was 'travelling' after 320,000+km. I was lucky enough to be present. Nice to note that it was right in the middle of the LR spec.
Without a total strip down, and as much as one could tell, things looked to be O.K. (touch a very large piece of wood).
What I liked was the very careful way in which the work was progressing with constant communication with myself. I have to say I am looking forwards to the work being completed as I seem to be suffering D4 withdrawal.
Never mind SWMBO not being too pleased that I am monopolising her 2014 Freelander2. Now that is a nippy little truck for which I have a whole new appreciation!
The attached pictures speak for themselves. Ravindra, the mechanic (tech) doing the work has certainly been keen to discuss the work and show me the process and progress.

Nice. Mine was twice the factory max spec, hence why I agreed to redo the bearings. That was at 270k km. I’m now at 317k km.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Nice. Mine was twice the factory max spec, hence why I agreed to redo the bearings. That was at 270k km. I’m now at 317k km.

I was prepared to head down a similar path to your good self if the news was not good. Luckily for me that is not how things turned out.

Ravindra, the mechanic (tech) doing the work has certainly been keen to discuss the work and show me the process and progress.

Any mechanic who welcomes dialogue and communicates happily is probably a keeper... I'm always wary when they try to 'shut you out'... It looks like you're going to have both peace of mind and a refreshed car!