Thread: Discovery 3 ownership so far......

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Great summary.

Suspension faults most likely to be the valve blocks at each corner. You’ve changed the desiccant in the compressor, but most likely the galeries at each corner are partially blocked. There’s a really good o ring kit available from the UK and the rebuild is easy to do.

Raised air intake not only looks great but in my view extends air filter life and against water ingress. Make sure you get it professionally installed or make really sure you understand the installation process if attempting DIY.

Re a code reader, I went with the Rovacom unit over the GAPiid and have no trouble diagnosing and clearing all fault codes, before that I used a $50 eBay cheapy that also worked ok, but it was very limited and only able to clear high level codes.

your fuel economy figures are pretty good for a large 4wd petrol engined brick.

lca’s are pretty easy to diy, most on here replace the complete arm as this means you also get new ball joints and the install is much easier. Check the rear arms as well, mine were knackered at 200000km.

also, if towing often, replace the rear sway bar links with Superpro adjustable units, this tightens up the rear and makes for better handling when towing imho. I also did the fronts with Mehle HD units (larger ball joints but non adjustable) at 200,000km.

Hello Eric

The fuel economy on the old girl is variable as you will know, I don't usually drive the D3 in heavy traffic (daily driver) so my urban figures will be lower than other owners for sure. I usually get around the 500>550km out of a tank, that's driving to the speed limits.

I have a seal kit for the suspension control modules but haven't installed this as my D3 rarely sags over night, she will drop some when I'm away at work (3 weeks) I may just do the change out when I get home.

I will look to order the LCA's when I get home, there is a really good thread on here with a break down of the beat bush type to go with when I change out the whole LCA.

Good write up - thanks.

I've owned a 4.0 for about the same time you have but got mine at 230 and now at 300.

The bad: the worst car I've owned reliability wise (haven't had this much trouble with all my other Japanese cars put together)

The not so bad: compared to other D3/4 owners, my issues have been quite minor.

The good: the nicest car i've owned. besides reliability nothing comes close (includes a V6 Amarok)

The terrible: I'm unable to pull the pin on a non D3/4. Genuinely stuck. Would love something newer and more reliable (and something that chews less fuel), but nothing out there. Prado closest, but every time I think of all the things the Prado is missing that the D3 has and how ugly the Prado is inside and out I just think I'll keep driving the D3 some more.

Issues:
- suspension - punctured airbag (this is totally fine really. 250k out of a shock is very good, but diagnosing was not easy) [resolved]
- xmas light dash [unresolved]
- seemingly arbitrary F error - clears if turn off/on [resolved]
- dash cluster electronics gone - flickers on and off at will [unresolved]
- remote door locking stopped - cost a bit to diagnose but didn't repair and fixed itself eventually [resolved]
- electronics module behind the battery was causing electrical issues and made car underivable. fixed myself by taking it out and getting rid of some corrosion (but was a whole saga including getting carted away to LR specialist) [resolved]
- engine light on - not sure the cause yet [unresolved]

Hi All,

I know this is titled D3 ownership but I thought I'd add my experience. Also to add a little balance to the experiences.

The D3: Owned for 5 years. Bought with circa 185k on the clock and sold with circa 290k

It never let us down and we drove it all over the state.

Cost a bit over that time as I did a number of maintenance items that you'd expect at those kms. Brakes, lower control arm bushes (bought the on car press kit so only the cost of bushes) EGR cooler blanking. Two front air bags. Alternator and battery. Front wheel bearing. Rear upper arms. Rear prop shaft. Transmission service.

Did a lot that stuff myself so not too expensive.

Loved it but wanted something newer and with a bit more power so didn't hesitate to look for a D4.

The D4: Owned 3 years. Bought with 70 km on the clock. Now has 135k.

Significant step up from the D3 in all aspects.

Never let us down.

I do 6 month services myself. Circa $120/service and a leisurely hour in the driveway. In addition to servicing, I've replace rear brake pads and lower control arm bushes (once again with on car press so circa $70.00eac bush) and done a transmission service.

It's due for belts this year.

I don't worry about crank shaft issues as it will either happen or it won't, I service adequately so have have no more control than that. I just get in and drive it. NB: Last trip 1500 kms to east of Esperance at Easter with camper. Didn't miss a beat.

Super car and I still love driving it everyday.

Well that's my two cents worth....

Originally Posted by nixo

Good write up - thanks.

I've owned a 4.0 for about the same time you have but got mine at 230 and now at 300.

The bad: the worst car I've owned reliability wise (haven't had this much trouble with all my other Japanese cars put together)

The not so bad: compared to other D3/4 owners, my issues have been quite minor.

The good: the nicest car i've owned. besides reliability nothing comes close (includes a V6 Amarok)

The terrible: I'm unable to pull the pin on a non D3/4. Genuinely stuck. Would love something newer and more reliable (and something that chews less fuel), but nothing out there. Prado closest, but every time I think of all the things the Prado is missing that the D3 has and how ugly the Prado is inside and out I just think I'll keep driving the D3 some more.

Issues:
- suspension - punctured airbag (this is totally fine really. 250k out of a shock is very good, but diagnosing was not easy) [resolved]
- xmas light dash [unresolved]
- seemingly arbitrary F error - clears if turn off/on [resolved]
- dash cluster electronics gone - flickers on and off at will [unresolved]
- remote door locking stopped - cost a bit to diagnose but didn't repair and fixed itself eventually [resolved]
- electronics module behind the battery was causing electrical issues and made car underivable. fixed myself by taking it out and getting rid of some corrosion (but was a whole saga including getting carted away to LR specialist) [resolved]
- engine light on - not sure the cause yet [unresolved]

I heard on talkback radio yesterday Consumer Protection warning WA listeners about the probability of flood damaged cars from QLD/NSW being dumped in WA. This list reads like text book problems from a car that got wet previously.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I heard on talkback radio yesterday Consumer Protection warning WA listeners about the probability of flood damaged cars from QLD/NSW being dumped in WA. This list reads like text book problems from a car that got wet previously.

Interesting and quite possible that's the case. If it is it must have been fresh as it's not rusting (thank god).

i've noticed an uptick in cars for sale in WA and was wondering why. Talks for the tip.

Originally Posted by nixo

Interesting and quite possible that's the case. If it is it must have been fresh as it's not rusting (thank god).

i've noticed an uptick in cars for sale in WA and was wondering why. Talks for the tip.

The advice was, when buying from a dealer, was that it is NOT illegal for them not to tell you it was flood damaged but it IS illegal for them to not tell you if you ask them if it was flood damaged.

The other tip was to check the glovebox as detailers generally miss cleaning that out.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

The advice was, when buying from a dealer, was that it is NOT illegal for them not to tell you it was flood damaged but it IS illegal for them to not tell you if you ask them if it was flood damaged.

The other tip was to check the glovebox as detailers generally miss cleaning that out.

The more I think about the floods and selling off cars the more I think that buying a second hand car from WA or from QLD or NSW is now a very risky business. Reckon it'd be really difficult for the average punter to tell if the car had water damage or not. And, maybe the car buyers in WA (or anywhere else) are not asking the question themselves - ask me no questions and I'll tell you no lies.

And thinking more about issues on my vehicle - these are very common issues so maybe not flooded water damage at all. The Transfer Case ECU Module is really quite high up but the design is not very well waterproofed - splashing water from the road can easily get up in there and corrode the pins (and commonly does). The remote locking issue could stem from the KVM and it's known issue water can get in there from the top (esp from sunroof apparently). The cluster issue is so big entire industries have formed around it in the UK. It's possible it was water damage, but I really think I'd have seen evidence of it somewhere - whenever I've opened up an area of the vehicle like under the door sills - it's been immaculate in there... wiring is clean as. I think it's much more likely that it's LR poor electronics design and QA. Ultimately hard for me to tell... would need an expert to investigate.

Originally Posted by nixo

The more I think about the floods and selling off cars the more I think that buying a second hand car from WA or from QLD or NSW is now a very risky business. Reckon it'd be really difficult for the average punter to tell if the car had water damage or not. And, maybe the car buyers in WA (or anywhere else) are not asking the question themselves - ask me no questions and I'll tell you no lies.

And thinking more about issues on my vehicle - these are very common issues so maybe not flooded water damage at all. The Transfer Case ECU Module is really quite high up but the design is not very well waterproofed - splashing water from the road can easily get up in there and corrode the pins (and commonly does). The remote locking issue could stem from the KVM and it's known issue water can get in there from the top (esp from sunroof apparently). The cluster issue is so big entire industries have formed around it in the UK. It's possible it was water damage, but I really think I'd have seen evidence of it somewhere - whenever I've opened up an area of the vehicle like under the door sills - it's been immaculate in there... wiring is clean as. I think it's much more likely that it's LR poor electronics design and QA. Ultimately hard for me to tell... would need an expert to investigate.

Other than someone high pressure washing behind battery or getting a footwell leak via blocked sunroof drain or poor windscreen replacement or mice attack electrical gremlins are very rare (thank you Mr Ford).

Same for console failures they are not as common as engine failures.

High humidity areas or torrential rain generate different problems i.e. wheel bearings than you see in other areas of Australia.

Regards water damage imagine the amount of cars in basement car parks that were flooded up to the door handles. I’m hearing that hire cars are expensive and rare in QLD as they lost literally car parks full of near new cars so they dump them “before” any electrical gremlins show up.