I will try the multi-meter approach and report back....
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I will try the multi-meter approach and report back....
Just get the battery tested at a battery shop - normally free - my battery was playing up a little while back - still producing 13v, cranking amps were sort of still there but was only holding about 30Ah worth of charge not the normal 95Ah - so it would crank and start but if anything went wrong like a cold start it was not up to the job.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						It's been on the CTEK charger for 24 hours, and is reading 12.76V tonight. That's around 80% charge for an AGM, I think. Interestingly, the CTEK reckoned it was fully charged and had shifted into float charge. Will see what the voltage is in the morning, and then look at a battery shop.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						The combination of only around 12.8V and the charger going to float mode suggests that the battery has a problem unless the charger is set for an SLA battery.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						OK, thanks to all for the advice and comments. I got 12.9 last night when I held the multimeter properly(!). This morning, the battery read 12.89/12.9. So it seemed to hold its charge overnight, at somewhere north of 95% charge for an AGM.
However, taking 110RRS's advice, I then checked with the doors open, and all the interior lights on (mine are not LED).
It immediately dropped to 12.56, and stayed there with the doors re-closed and the lights off. That's somewhere around 75-85% charge. I'm not a battery expert, but that 'seems' to me to be quite a loss/drop from powering 3 or 4 globes for about 60 seconds? Grateful for any follow up comments...
All other things being equal, I. think I'll change the battery as a first step. Frustratingly, I don't know when this one went in, but I'm guessing it's the second on a 2015 vehicle, so this would just about fit with a 3 to 4 year life expectancy?
3-4 years is a bonus for a battery I feel, they are a disposable item, and yes a lot of people will say they get 7-8 years which is great for them but I’m happy if I get 18 months, that’s me thou. Get the battery load tested with a proper old school load tester then buy a new one.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Quick update:
1. It's all settled down after a good weekend's CTEK AGM trickle charge.
2. Lesson learned. The garage's nonsense about BCM was just that: I've run my cheap and cheerful OBD2/android software several times, and the BCM DTCs are all negative. A scanner will earn its cost the first time you need it.
3. No more warning lights. The next step is a Traxide unit, for various reasons, but that should assist in avoiding any low battery issues.
4. OBD is showing a rock steady 14.1 V system voltage when the engine is running - I'm happy.
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