Thread: Oil in brake booster?

Exacto what just happened to me.

ShaneShed has videos on replacement.

Step 1 - with engine off pop apart the vacuum line quick connector in front of booster and you might hear the air suck in as some verification the NRV is working. You may notice oil oozes out as well (mine did not).

Step 2 - with engine running you should be able to feel vacuum suction at the connection. Put your thumb over it.

Step 3 - with a long flat blade screw driver prize the vacuum line out of the booster. It’s a friction fit into the rubber seal so work carefully in a few directions and it will pop out. The screw driver can get behind it so you don’t snap it off.

Step 4 - using something long and flexible dip for signs of oil in the booster. My oil extraction vac pump worked here and I also was able to suck out oil. Not a heap but an obvious amount. The rubber grommet comes out making a bigger hole to see into with a torch and you will easily see oil contamination.

Mine worked again intermittently after doing this - it is no fix. Your booster is cooked.

Step 5 - buy updated RRS booster and watch Shane Shed videos.

I took my vacuum lines completely off and by blowing into them you can verify the NRV works. I washed mine in soapy water and very little, if any, oil came out. I did not replace the line or touch the vac pump.

Hardest part of whole job is getting that damned safety clip off the brake pedal. Extreme torture.

New TRW RRS booster is amazing. Less than $300 delivered via AF.

Originally Posted by Bulletman

Gday All <br>
I know this has probably been covered heaps, but can someone tell me if and how to check if my booster has oil in it. I have read you can suck it out to get you out of trouble. Car seemed to loose brakes last night and looking at the obvious things today nothing seems to be amiss.<br>
I'm sure the recall was done but we are talking about a 14 year old car so would guess its possible oil has gotten into the booster.<br>
Cheers Bulletman

The recall check valve can and does fail but you can buy it separately without the vacuum pipes. The booster doesn't need to be replaced unless the mineral oil has got on the rubber diaphragm.

Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

The recall check valve can and does fail but you can buy it separately without the vacuum pipes. The booster doesn't need to be replaced unless the mineral oil has got on the rubber diaphragm.

But if it isn’t working it’s either no vacuum or dead booster. Simple as that.

So I took the car for a drive and the brakes work fine when driving at normal speed and when slowing at the lights but on a few occasions when I was coming to a stop the pedal would basically just go to the floor.

I have ordered a new booster the upgraded RRS version and plan to look to see if the booster is contaminated either later today or tomorrow. I always thought other cars I have driven stopped better than the D3 so dont think better brakes will hurt even if the booster isn't at fault.
Also ordered a new vacuum pump as I'm positive its leaking oil so may be easier to change when the booster is out of the way.

Cheers Bulletman

Pedal sinking to floor is another symptom like master cylinder failure or air in system. When the booster fails it’s like pushing on a rock. There’s no sink you have to use leg power to stop.

Well I just checked and there is no oil in the booster , well if there is its further down than the 200mm long piece of air line I poked the down there .
The system hasn't been opened or anything touched so wouldn't think its air.

So I'm looking for something else it seems.

Cheers Bulletman

Originally Posted by Bulletman

Gday All
I know this has probably been covered heaps, but can someone tell me if and how to check if my booster has oil in it. I have read you can suck it out to get you out of trouble. Car seemed to loose brakes last night and looking at the obvious things today nothing seems to be amiss.
I'm sure the recall was done but we are talking about a 14 year old car so would guess its possible oil has gotten into the booster.
Cheers Bulletman

Is it consistent? Reason I ask is on another vehicle I've experienced a "temporary loss of braking" that turned out to be a malfunction in the ABS which thought a wheel was locked and eased off the brakes significantly. That was highly intermittent and took a while to track down. Admittedly that ABS system is considerably older and more agricultural that that in the D3.

Originally Posted by BradC

Is it consistent? Reason I ask is on another vehicle I've experienced a "temporary loss of braking" that turned out to be a malfunction in the ABS which thought a wheel was locked and eased off the brakes significantly. That was highly intermittent and took a while to track down. Admittedly that ABS system is considerably older and more agricultural that that in the D3.

No I wouldn't say its consistent and if you are doing anything about 10ks/hr the car will stop normal. Its happening when you try and pull up coming out a driveway and go to stop the pedal just looses all its pressure, similar but not as bad as bleeding the brakes but along those lines.
Happened to me coming into a car park so doing maybe 2 or 3 km/h went to stop and no brakes quick pump and it managed to stop.
I had a car pull out when I was doing 60 and car stopped perfect.

Cheers Bulletman