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Thread: Trailer light blinking

  1. #11
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    Just read this thread and wanted to say I’m very proud to be part of a forum that can help member, so quickly, so thoroughly and with lots of technical info.
    Also reminded me about “Ohm’s Law” along the way.
    Well done everyone.
    best wishes.
    jeffoir.
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  2. #12
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    Hi brains trust,

    While we're talking about led load resistors and using them to get the car to register that a trailer is attached... I'm wondering if anyone has ever wired them into the trailer running lights rather than the indicators. I always have my running lights on so was thinking that allow me to get away with just the one set of load resistors.

    Also for my education, if the resistors are connected to the indicators, do you have to use the indicators first to get the car to register the trailer?

    Cheers

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn20869 View Post
    Hi brains trust,

    While we're talking about led load resistors and using them to get the car to register that a trailer is attached... I'm wondering if anyone has ever wired them into the trailer running lights rather than the indicators. I always have my running lights on so was thinking that allow me to get away with just the one set of load resistors.

    Also for my education, if the resistors are connected to the indicators, do you have to use the indicators first to get the car to register the trailer?

    Cheers
    Howdy,

    If you have a D4, you only need one resistor - pick your favourite indicator, and add to that circuit . No idea if adding to the running lights will work.

    I believe the system does a test when you open the driver door, but not certain. I tend to use the indicators right after connecting anyway, as a check to make sure the trailer lights are working correctly.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn20869 View Post
    Hi brains trust,

    While we're talking about led load resistors and using them to get the car to register that a trailer is attached... I'm wondering if anyone has ever wired them into the trailer running lights rather than the indicators. I always have my running lights on so was thinking that allow me to get away with just the one set of load resistors.

    Also for my education, if the resistors are connected to the indicators, do you have to use the indicators first to get the car to register the trailer?

    Cheers
    It has to be on the indicator circuit(s).

    As Veebs said to get the D4 to recognise a trailer is attached only one resistor is required, but if you want the dash trailer symbol to flash when you indicate you need two resistors. One on each of the trailer indicator circuits.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn20869 View Post
    Hi brains trust,

    While we're talking about led load resistors and using them to get the car to register that a trailer is attached... I'm wondering if anyone has ever wired them into the trailer running lights rather than the indicators. I always have my running lights on so was thinking that allow me to get away with just the one set of load resistors.

    Also for my education, if the resistors are connected to the indicators, do you have to use the indicators first to get the car to register the trailer?

    Cheers
    I made a small dongle that contains 2 load resistors. When the van is plugged in the 12 pin flat, I plug the dongle in the now unused 12N round socket. Small length of appropriate size poly pipe, a 12N plug and resistors wired up. Been using this system for 6 years.
    LED Fix1.jpg
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briar View Post
    I made a small dongle that contains 2 load resistors. When the van is plugged in the 12 pin flat, I plug the dongle in the now unused 12N round socket. Small length of appropriate size poly pipe, a 12N plug and resistors wired up. Been using this system for 6 years.
    LED Fix1.jpg
    It may just look bigger because it’s black, but I’m suddenly feeling rather self conscious having seen your ‘small dongle’
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by veebs View Post
    It may just look bigger because it’s black, but I’m suddenly feeling rather self conscious having seen your ‘small dongle’
    It is 6", really.
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
    Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg

  8. #18
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briar View Post
    It is 6", really.
    Measured from the end or the base of the socket?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Measured from the end or the base of the socket?
    OK, Brad, lol. I was trying to enter into the spirit of the gag.

    It's actually 7" long, but not trying to brag.

    170mm to be exact, total length. Easy to make. The poly pipe (from bunnings) is a perfect fit to attach to the 12N plug, I had to put a little slit on one side of the poly pipe as I put the load resistors back to back in the poly. Makes the dongle shorter than it otherwise would have been. Just wrap the whole lot in electrical tape.

    Dongle 1.jpgDongle 2.jpg
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
    Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg

  10. #20
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    Well, it's certainly a solution, though i'm not sure I would want to have to explain why i needed to insert that up the back of my car whenever I wanted to tow

    Ok, i'll see myself out...
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

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