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Thread: Has my Traxide BMS let me down?

  1. #1
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    Has my Traxide BMS let me down?

    Hello. I recently had an unplanned trip away for 14 weeks and returned to find both my main and auxiliary batteries dead flat (D4 down to the bump stops). Both had died and needed to be replaced (very expensive). The aux battery was 5-6 years old, and potentially a bit dodgy, but the main battery was less than two years old an seemed in good nick. I suspect that the auxiliary battery has died and somehow managed to parasite the cranking battery charge until it flattened. I think I left the USI-160 BMS in ignition mode, but can’t be sure. Question…has the isolator not done its job, or would a healthy start battery potentially be killed by lack of use over this period of time (not sure what the cut-out voltage is set at on the BMS)? Any thoughts much appreciated….I’m no brain surgeon.

  2. #2
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    Tim from Traxide usually monitors these threads. If he doesn’t reply in a day or so maybe send Traxide an email
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Lizzy View Post
    ... I think I left the USI-160 BMS in ignition mode, but can’t be sure.
    If that is the case I believe it should have isolated your cranking from your aux battery very much earlier than if you had left it in the recommended 'shared' mode.

    Your aux battery was probably being propped up by your cranking battery (hence self discharged when isolated for such a long time) and your cranking battery is always running some systems even while parked up for 14 weeks. Result - 2 flat batteries, nothing to do with the BMS I think.
    2024 RRS on the road
    2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  4. #4
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    Hi Tim and sorry mate, but you can not leave any lead acid battery for 14 weeks without some sort of maintenance charging while you are away.

    Even 4 weeks weeks would be the limit and that’s providing the batteries are fully charged in the first place.

    If this type of situation occurs again, either fit a low current trickle charger or a small solar panel.

    Or a day or so before you leave, fully charge both batteries and then remove the negative lead off both batteries. While this is not ideal, it will leave the batteries in a better state for when you get home.
    Last edited by p38arover; 9th September 2022 at 02:11 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Tim and sorry mate but you can not leave any lead acid battery for 14 weeks without some sort of maintenance charging while you are away.

    Even 4 weeks weeks would be the limit and that’s providing the batteries are fully charged in the first place.

    If this type of situation occurs again, either fit a low current trickle charger or a small solar panel.

    Or a day or so before you leave, fully charge both batteries and then remove the negative lead off both batteries. While this is not idea, it will leave the batteries in a better state when you get home.
    Only viable if vehicle is in a secure facility.
    Otherwise you cannot lock the vehicle.


    14 weeks would definitely have the car flatten the main battery - maximum I’ve seen before it won’t start is around 2.5 weeks.

    I have a small solar panel on my roof to maintain the vehicle when parked up for this exact reason.

  6. #6
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    I have Anderson plugs at both front and rear of our l320. With the traxide system it is easy to connect battery charger to either and keep batteries fully charged. I use these to plug into my caravan as well to keep all fully charged when camping with caravan solar and charger.
    Current 2008 RRS TDV8
    Current 1995 P38 4.6 HS

  7. #7
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Only viable if vehicle is in a secure facility.
    Otherwise you cannot lock the vehicle.
    Before leaving : Bonnet up, lock vehicle, disconnect battery, close bonnet.
    On return : Key unlock passenger side door, bonnet up, reconnect battery, close bonnet.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Before leaving : Bonnet up, lock vehicle, disconnect battery, close bonnet.
    On return : Key unlock passenger side door, bonnet up, reconnect battery, close bonnet.
    Don’t some bridge out bonnet switch,problem fixed for good?

    IMHO not really needed anyway.

  9. #9
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Don’t some bridge out bonnet switch,problem fixed for good?

    IMHO not really needed anyway.
    Regardless, it's irrelevant in this scenario. All that happens is when you lock with the bonnet up the horn honks once. It still locks all the doors.
    Disconnect the battery and close the bonnet. Job done.

    Before you do that it'd be a good idea to check that your passenger side key lock actually works. Most seem to lie unused until they are needed by which time they're frozen solid.

    Another option is to power the car up through the white 12S socket and unlock with the remote, but without a battery connected you'll need a solid power supply >= 10A to get the thing to boot. Last time I tried to charge a flat battery with a 5A power supply, the boot up current of all the ECUs was such it kept pulling the voltage down causing a boot loop. Had to disconnect the battery to get a float onto it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Before leaving : Bonnet up, lock vehicle, disconnect battery, close bonnet.
    On return : Key unlock passenger side door, bonnet up, reconnect battery, close bonnet.
    You tried this?

    Vehicle wont lock if bonnet sensor isnt bypassed.... I tried....

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