Thread: A quick recovery question...

I'd use a hard shackle there. For what you want to do I'd have no problem using the Landrover towing assembly. Personally, I have a Mitch Hitch and would use a hard shackle connected to one of the shackle holes. (The Mitch Hitch is permanently attached to that recovery point and two other chassis points).

I have a soft shackle compatible insert for my Mitch Hitch for this purpose

Thanks guys. Yup, I'd be happy with using one in the mitch hitch, because there's no (or much less) 'torqueing' with one, because of the way it's all locked in... The standard hitch (which I have) is better than the old D3 plough, but still means that it is being torqued if you put serious loading from it. I'm not experienced enough to know whether it'll cope with no issues, or risk something breaking just when one really doesn't need it.

Any other views out there?

I have had no issues with recovery using the factory recovery points and whilst there is not an official rating for them they are more than adequate for most offroad recoveries. If a mitch hitch was fitted I'd happily use that as it uses the factory chassis mount anyway, but if not fitted the last thing I'd use would be the factory tow hitch

• The factory tow hitch introduces leverage that may twist the chassis if overloaded.
• The Factory tow hitch may damage its locking mechanism or the socket o the chassis leaving it unremovable or unusable
• The factory recovery/tow point is there for a reason and is more than strong enough. If you break it you would break any other means of attachment for the recovery method you are using

There is a notional loading of 6 tons on those recovery points but as with any recovery point it is impossible to rate them due to the difference in dynamic loads that could be generated. There's a bit of an explanation of this here using a notional 80KM/h recovery speed and a permanently stuck vehicle here RECOVERY POINTS VS TIE DOWN POINTS - Unsealed 4X4

Regards,
Tote

And I reckon that last answer nails it for me... Good points re ending up with a buggered load of lumps... In that case, I think it's the factory eye with a bit of coarse file work to get the worst of the built in shackle cutter gone.

Or carry a rated bow shackle that attaches to the factory recovery point and is much nicer to your soft shackle? Until I get my hands on a mitch hitch (or equivalent) that's what I've got planned.

Originally Posted by goldey

Or carry a rated bow shackle that attaches to the factory recovery point and is much nicer to your soft shackle? Until I get my hands on a mitch hitch (or equivalent) that's what I've got planned.

I actually have one, but have 2 concerns as it stands:

1. I'm slightly uneasy about it twisting to the left or right in the eye in a 'not completely straight' recovery (ie most of them...). I worry about general banging up of the electrics etc if this happens.

2. Again, as it stands, the eye is so rough that it will - possibly to a worse extent than with a soft shackle - concentrate load at one or two points on the rated bow shackle cross pin - which negates its rating...

Probably over-thinking, but the loads involved dictate a bit of caution - I have personal experience of recovery going wrong, and seen windows destroyed, etc etc - so I'd rather play it safe and be boring...

So agree with your suggestion, but in any case, its getting a bloody smoothing first!

I cant see an issue with taking some rough spots out on the loop - not going to have a negative effect if that is all you are doing.