Good post... Will help many.
Reason you couldnt see evidence of Oil - They use a glycol, so leaks quickly wash away
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi All,
When I was trying to confirm to myself that I needed to change my D4 LCA's I couldn't find much info or photos to confirm my suspicions, so I though that I'd post these photos to potentially assist others.
History/Symptoms:
- Purchased D4 at ~56k from LR Dealer, and already had some front end knocking, but only when going over corrugated roads (horrendous), or occasional short bumps.
- This knocking slowly got worse, but not enough to get me to do anything about it, as the D4 still drove beautifully
- Fast forward to 102K, when I had all four brake rotors (and pads) changed at the same time. All was good, even did a drive to Sydney and back without issues.
- Then suddenly, after having sat for a couple of days, the front drivers side started to suffer terrible brake vibration/knock/shudder on braking.
- Took it into the garage, and they said warped rotor, and skimmed the disc (but didn't charge me for it), which made it a bit better.
- The brake vibration/knock/shudder on braking would sometimes disappear, but get noticeably worse when the D4 had gone a few 10's of km (i.e. warmed up)
- Assuming that it was brake bedding in issues, I then tried the various hard stop techniques to get them sorted, which would make it better for a bit, but not fixed.
- After the vibration/knocking/shudder getting really bad, I finally gave in and ordered Meyle HD LCA's for replacement (noting that all though this saga, the garage said that the bushings were fine and had no play).
- I've just had them changed, and I now have the sweetest ride (wishing I had made the decision ages back). There is probably a little but of vibration in the brakes, but nothing of any concern at all.
Notes:
- The garage said that the bushings were fine, had no play, and didn't need to be replaced.
- I poked an inspection camera into the bushings, and only saw a little bit of perished rubber at most, so didn't think that they had totally gone
- There was no obvious signs of grease leakage from the bushings (that I saw) prior to their removal
- Highly recommend the Meyle HD bushings (hopefully they will last a lot longer than their 4 year warranty).
- I think that the photos say it all - there's not a lot you can tell from just looking at the bushings on the car, but once they come off, it's clear they are u/s.
- photos are numbered and description in the filename (but in wrong order - start with #8)
Good post... Will help many.
Reason you couldnt see evidence of Oil - They use a glycol, so leaks quickly wash away
Not overly impressed with your mechanic. D3/4 LCA bushes can be easily checked by any numpty. Simply jack up a wheel and use a tyre lever or similar to see if the bush moves. If it does, replace it. If not, all OK.
They are a sacrificial item designed to assist the suspension to provide such a brilliant ride over virtually any surface. Depending on driving style, terrain and whether towing or not, expect to replace the LCA front hydra bushes every (Oh, I dunno) 60-90,000 kms. Personally, I replace the complete arm and only use genuine Landrover.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
Get that brake vibration sorted, there shouldn't be any.
Other wise you will be up for new LCAs again in no time.
The Meyhle hd are good
Sounds like dodgy bros mechanics to me. Reckon your wheel bearings are probably due, use only Timken.
If the brake vibration wasn’t there prior to changing the arms, it’s a good bet the wheel alignment isn’t correct.
I fitted the Meyle-HD LCA's to our 08 D3 (210,000km) yesterday and the difference in ride is amazing! The old genuine bushes looked exactly like the ones you pictured.
My wife drives the car daily and had been complaining about knocks and noises, but what made me pull my finger out was that the steering wheel sat at about 11oClock rather than straight ahead, and when ever she drove on a straight road for ore than 5 mins the suspension would go into limp mode and drop to access height. Haven't had a wheel alignment done yet, but the suspension fault hasn't happened today at all so I assume the steering angle sensor was logging a fault.
2008 D3 TDV6 SE Arctic White 200,000km
2003 D2a td5 Monte Carlo Blue 370,000 (sold)
1996 D1 300tdi Manual some greeny blue colour 240,000km (sold)
My brake vibes were the rear bushes, man they were sad, and the wheel used to pulse in and out
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