 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						At least I'm not the only one who has a 'whinge' about it Gavin, absolute disgrace that new engines can't be bought if the worse happens despite good servicing etc. Anyway, although I've put a deposit on a Tojo I'm still looking at a Defender....
Don't forget to keep your eyes on the road at least part of the time whilst driving.
Cheers.
AlanH.
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Yep I though engine oil was a little high too - always been that way, and I'm assuming there is only one engine oil temp sensor.
Re dumbass - I did ask Dazza some time ago, but can't for the life of me remember the answer. On balance, with the amount of towing and country trips we do, I'm leaning towards the 5-40 option if not already in place.
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberBelieve it or not, there are few manufacturers who actually supply new engines these days. Possibly due to prohibitive cost and in many cases it is uneconomic to buy a complete assembly when your own block/head assy can be reconditioned.
In the D3/D4 case, it seems to me that it would be far better to have one's own engine reco'ed with the latest updated crankshaft (same as new Ford Ranger ????) and the mods to the conrods, etc.
Turbos, for example, can be reco-ed at very reasonable cost these days by many specialists across Aus, and depending on the klms of one's engine at failure time, it would not be worthwhile nor cost effective by doing the cyl heads, fuel pump, injectors, egr's etc etc which you are paying for with a complete engine assy.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
Excellent information Gav, will help heaps of people when chasing issues
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