Thread: TRAXIDE kit, which one for a D4

I have the Winch Traxide Kit in my D4. My understanding is they are the same for a D3 and D4. The old cig lighter in the back is still the on the LHS. Tim (traxide) provided me with a Merrit socket for the RHS for my fridge. I also have the anderson plug for the caravan. Best contact Tim, and he will point you in the correct direction.

I would highly recommend speaking to Tim at Traxide. His number is on his website... Traxide Tronics |
Absolutely lovely bloke. I've found him always happy to discuss technical questions and issues over the phone.

I gave Tim a call before purchasing the Traxide D4-2D for my 2015 Disco 4. Very happy with the product's performance.

Hi Daz and first off, those diagrams are for the older kits.

I have upgraded all my kits and will display the new kit diagrams below.

Now as for a D3 kit in a D4.

Yes this can be done in “SOME” D4s.

The problem is that a D3 battery clamp can only be used is some D4s, because of the location of the ABS brake block in the Drivers side battery compartment.

In many D4s, this aluminium block covers the mounting nut in the base of the battery box and stops the auxiliary from being able to be secured in place.

There is no specific D4 model, it is just varies from one D4 to another.

Advantage of a D3 kit in a D4 is cost and quicker fitting, but again, this is only if the battery can be secured on the drivers side.

Disadvantage, a D3 setup will only allow the use of a 60Ah auxiliary battery.

Advantage of using a D4 kit, and although a higher cost and longer fit time, you can use a much bigger 85Ah battery, mounted just in front of the cranking battery.

A new version of the D4-2D kit is available but be aware, one in every three D4-2D kit sold, usually gets upgraded to a D4-5D kit, two, three, four years after the D4-2D kit is fitted, because the customer has now decided to tow a camper van or caravan.

My most popular kit is the D4-5D and I sell more of these than all my other kits combined.

Even when all that is required is a D4-2D kit, most customers choose to “future proof” their install by just installing the D4-5D kit from the start.

Even when not planning on towing a camper van or caravan, the rear mounted Anderson plug can be used as a means of charging both batteries either with a regulated solar panel or with a 240vac battery charger.

This form of charging can be done while the D4 is locked up, which can be very handy if you are leaving the vehicle for a long period, say when going overseas on a long holiday.

I also have many customers who use the rear Anderson plug to power compressors for airing up after going off road.

There are also customers who make up an extension cable and run a lead into their tent, to power a fridge, camp lighting and run accessories.

And Daz, last but not least, unless your customer is fitting an electric winch, there is no advantage to fitting either a USI-160 or the newer UST-175, high current isolators.

Even if a customer fits a winch, the Dt90 isolator will be fine for this type of use.

Over the last few years I have had a number of customers fit electric winches long after fitting a DT90 setup and have had no issues using the winch with the DT90 isolator.

Daz, I will leave that choice up to you and thank you very much for your support.

Here the diagrams for the new D4-2D and the D4-5D kits.

22 D4-2D.jpg

22 D4-5D.jpg

I installed the top-of-the-line D3 kit in my D4, in order to keep the 'stock' look under the bonnet. Ah, vanity.

It worked better with the Optima battery, as I was able to use the land rover battery hold down. Switching to the SSB after the optima died meant fabricating my own hold down using threaded bar and aluminium strip. Not difficult obviously, and worth it for the better battery.

I think the later D4s had even more electronics in that box, making it harder to move around, though not certain on that.

Absolutely get the model with all the options at the back - I use the anderson plug to drive an air compressor (I use the ARB portable one with an anderson in place of the battery clamps), and use it to top up the battery, solar input when camping, etc etc.
I think I improved on Tim's install though, by mounting it, together with an unregulated solar input in one of these: Anderson Plug Double Flush Mount Plate & Recessed Bracket SB50 - 014 - Eledric. Screws straight into the mount holes for the white trailer plug, which i disconnected from behind the passenger side of the rear bumper
(Downside is it needs to be disconnected for body-off work, but I try to limit that to once a decade).

All great info, I appreciate everyone's input.

I think once again Tim shows his support for AULRO (and obviously his products) in posting some good info and is what I was looking for.

The D4-5D kit

Will the D4-5D fit a Range Rover Sport with a spare front battery, and a battery in a box in the rear?
Alan

Originally Posted by Aussie Jeepster

Will the D4-5D fit a Range Rover Sport with a spare front battery, and a battery in a box in the rear?
Alan

Hi Alan and yes, D4-5D kit is the same install in the 2012 RRS.

You can power the rear battery box via the Anderson plug that would normally be located near the tow hitch, but instead, you simply leave it in the rear cargo compartment, to connect to the battery box when you need it, and hide it away when you don't need it.