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Thread: Hi Guys - 2014 Disco 4 SDV6 - The common cracked inlet manifold issue!

  1. #31
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    Seems to be a no-brainer on aluminium (based on what we know now). A couple of the Indy’s I called are recommending it. Priced between genuine and non-genuine anyway. Does anyone recommend where to source them to ensure good quality?

    Darryl at LRM was a legend to talk to about it (and many other things as a new disco owner). He said he was skeptical at first, but has fitted a few now and they seem good quality and line up nicely.

    I think I’ll roll the dice and see where I’m at during the next couple services this year. I’ll consider it a win if they last 12 months.

    RACQ ultimate cover and pre warning the wife measures have been taken.

  2. #32
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    I've only talked with 1 Indy about the aluminium ones, he said they don't fit properly and it's very difficult to get the y piece in correctly, he won't fit them anymore.

    I think it's an interesting idea, but at this stage we have no info on longevity of the aluminium vs plastic.

    Does anyone know the labour cost of changing one?

  3. #33
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    There’s been multiple updates to the OEM manifolds too, latest revision has yet to really have enough time to prove itself.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    A friend just fitted two aluminium manifolds to an SDV6 and I saw them prior to fitting. They appear well made and the casting looks good.
    Only time will tell I guess.

    Having said that, I can see and must concur with Tombie's points; the new OEM Genuine should be "bulletproof" now, considering that according to the LR Service News one of the problems was due to incorrect casting/moulding processes by the company who made them for LR and not so much due to bad design.

    It's the cheaper non-Genuine plastic ones I'd be staying well away from because as far as I'm aware it hasn't been determined if they are made by the same manufacturer as the Genuine ones.
    Do you know What is the part number of the new OEM genuine that should be “bulletproof “?

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourteen8 View Post
    Do you know What is the part number of the new OEM genuine that should be “bulletproof “?
    I did mine in April last year and these are the following parts I bought from Alan at British 4WD, Seven Mile Beach, Hobart, just around the corner from me:

    LR166213 LH manifold $622.72
    LR179201 RH manifold $622.73
    131652 Throttle body seal $41.00
    LR008353 Throttle body seal front $9.50
    DA7014 Fitting kit 3.0 inlet manifold (2 of) (injector seals etc) $63.00 EACH

    At the time, Genuine ones were like Rocking Horse manure.... almost impossible to find.
    Plenty of after market ones around but I wasn't prepared to try.

    Those above are Genuine LR manifolds and came in Genuine LR boxes.

    Suggest you replace the oil cooler & new "O" rings on oil separator as well whilst manifolds are off as its a doddle.
    P/n LR040738 oil cooler $361.00
    1337060 oil seal separator (3 off) $12.00 each

    I would think those prices would have risen somewhat due to exchange rates and huge freight increases.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    I did mine in April last year and these are the following parts I bought from Alan at British 4WD, Seven Mile Beach, Hobart, just around the corner from me:

    LR166213 LH manifold $622.72
    LR179201 RH manifold $622.73
    131652 Throttle body seal $41.00
    LR008353 Throttle body seal front $9.50
    DA7014 Fitting kit 3.0 inlet manifold (2 of) (injector seals etc) $63.00 EACH

    At the time, Genuine ones were like Rocking Horse manure.... almost impossible to find.
    Plenty of after market ones around but I wasn't prepared to try.

    Those above are Genuine LR manifolds and came in Genuine LR boxes.

    Suggest you replace the oil cooler & new "O" rings on oil separator as well whilst manifolds are off as its a doddle.
    P/n LR040738 oil cooler $361.00
    1337060 oil seal separator (3 off) $12.00 each

    I would think those prices would have risen somewhat due to exchange rates and huge freight increases.
    Did you do it yourself? How hard was it? Any special tools needed?

    Cheers
    Gus

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourteen8 View Post
    Did you do it yourself? How hard was it? Any special tools needed?

    Cheers
    Gus
    I started it but had to go to Sydney unexpectedly so got a mate to finish.
    There are many other persons on this site who can offer advice but I believe it is fairly straightforward.
    My understanding is that the injectors can sometimes be a bit difficult to withdraw if they stick in.
    Also vital to ensure the gasket/s are sealing correctly at rear of manifold or they will leak oil.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  8. #38
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    Anyone can recommend any indie in Melbourne to replace inlet manifold most passenger side and how much approximately they will charge? Thanks

  9. #39
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    Hi there,
    If anyone is interested, I have for sale left and right manifold.
    Brand new, genuine FOMOCO manufactured 21/22.
    Pm me if interested.
    Cheers

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourteen8 View Post
    Anyone can recommend any indie in Melbourne to replace inlet manifold most passenger side and how much approximately they will charge? Thanks
    I live on the other side of the bay, but I still use Daniel at Romsey British Automotive in, wait for it, Romsey.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

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