Thread: 2008 d3 electrical faults

Jesus Bruce, it sounds like you're having a hell of a run.

To me it sounds like a CAN bus fault. Aside from a wiring issue, the most common CAN bus translate error is a dash/console issue as that is the "translator" between the high and medium speed CAN busses. The "hazard lights" flashing is the red flag for me.

If it's a wiring fault on the Canbus system a continuity check may indicate that the circuit is good, but damaged insulation can allow a fault signal to be generated. I had a canbus problem on my 2005 D3 that was traced to damaged wire insulation in the canbus at one of the 3 connectors in the rear left wheel arch. I spliced in a repair and all came good. Hope this is of use, finding these sorts of problems can be a real headache.

Originally Posted by Airmech953

If it's a wiring fault on the Canbus system a continuity check may indicate that the circuit is good, but damaged insulation can allow a fault signal to be generated. I had a canbus problem on my 2005 D3 that was traced to damaged wire insulation in the canbus at one of the 3 connectors in the rear left wheel arch. I spliced in a repair and all came good. Hope this is of use, finding these sorts of problems can be a real headache.

Thanks for the insight! I Know I'm looking for a twisted pair of cables. who couldn't remember the colors. I did get a knock in the left-hand rear taillight some time ago.

While this doesnt look like it fits your issues, its worth looking at...

apart from the obvious of checking all fuses and replays are seated, they can oddly enough work their way out a bit.

*Main harness plug behind rear passenger side wheel, behind the air bag strut on the chassis is a plastic flap, behind that is 2 plugs, that will need cleaning before you carefully slide the side moving plastic locks to unplug the plug, make sure its clean in the plug, carefully check the wires going into the plug, sometimes they back out, have corrosion on them, also the wires themselves can chaff against each other and wear through the insulation, look for any green corrosion. You may need to strip back some of the outer cover on the harness to check it all, say about 100mm.

*with the battery out, fuse box next to the battery, the underside of the fuse box can have continuity issues especially at the end of the box closest to the firewall.

*with the battery out, remove the plastic cover and get into the integrated transfer control module, its a alloy looking box with 3 plugs on it facing up, unplug it check for green corrosion on the plugs, any sign of corrosion and its toast.

*check the main lead from the battery to the fuse box you have already played with, check both end are clean and tight.

if all that looks fine...
*IP cluster, remove it, unclip the back plastic panel, inspect the printed circuit board, again look for green corrosion, I think from memory, IP cluster dials facing you, lay it face down, the power control chips are on the left side of the circuit board, any tiny amount of corrosion on them will cause issues.

*abs module, again unplug and clean inside the plug.

Thanks Daz, A job for tomorrow, Iv'e got all the trim off the back checking for wiring issues atm.
Tried the engine , started then faulted 5 minutes later. Turn engine off now I can't start it and hazard lights won't stop nor will the radio.
So it no there. I'll put it all back together and try your suggestions.
The wiring loom is pretty clean though.

the hazard lights flashing, sounds like its drop mains power then coming back.

hence looking at the underside of the fuse box in the engine bay, start with that main power cable from the positive terminal to the fuse box.

I had a range rover sport where it randomly would just drop power, then it would restart until it did it again, was the loose cable i mentioned above

Although as others have suggested a can bus fault would drop everything, but allow the engine to keep running until you turned it off then not start again.

Also, make sure you’re charging that battery and that it’s healthy. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen someone (including myself) let the battery flatten a bit and then that interfering with the diag process.

The battery voltage is 12.85 volts
ABS is nice and clean.
On to the battery fuse box