Thread: P1247 Turbocharger boost pressure low

Good chance inlet manifold cracked,unless an intercooler hose is shagged.

Lack of acceleration and rough idle leads me to suspect stuck EGR.

What code reader are you using? Should be something showing up

just the two codes P1247 turbocharger boost pressure low and the water in the fuel circuit P2264. Just installed new fuel filter and checked fuel to be ok. I can hear the clicking noise from the cleaning motion of the 2ndary turbo bypass valve so ruled that out. Cant see any cracks in the manifold? thinking the egr valves but the rod connection moves freely both sides so doesn't the movement of the rod (shaft) open and close the egr valves? might try some wd40 in that area though the valve is internal to see if that makes a difference or not. thanks

So I think it is one of 3 things wrong as pointed

egr valve stuck open
secondary turbo bypass valve stuck
inlet manifold split (or a hose for that matter)

blanked off the egr hoses which made no difference (my thinking was if the egr valve was stuck open then blanking off would just throw up an error code but function normally) then would confirm egr problem
also the two exposed rods for the egrs move freely so thinking they operate the valve inside so cannot be stuck?

the exposed rod for the turbo bypass valve below the radiator does not move freely - so did a wash, now to apply wd40 and see if it will free up (guessing it should move freely as with egr valves) could be the culprit

changed fuel filter still getting water in fuel circuit error?

purchased some fuel additive for egr cleaner and poured into tank and reved motor

creating a smoke testing machine at home to try that next as well to determine if the manifold is split somewhere

thinking also to remove the egr pipes and spray egr cleaner or wd40 into the opening hole, might see if i can pock something inside to determine if the valve is stuck open or not?

the exposed rod for the turbo bypass valve below the radiator does not move freely - so did a wash, now to apply wd40 and see if it will free up (guessing it should move freely as with egr valves) could be the culprit

No, the turbo actuator is solenoid controlled and does not move freely. If you force it, you will strip the gears in the actuator.

Originally Posted by shamirj

creating a smoke testing machine at home to try that next as well to determine if the manifold is split somewhere

Its a simple test, use your eyes... visually even the smallest crack there will be black tar like residue where the crack is and often its on the underside of the plastic engine cover.

They also crack in the same spot, just on the edge of the injector acoustic foam where the contour of the inlet changes.

A split top turbo hose will have the same black residue where the split is, standing in front of the engine, place your hand on the turbo hose, slide it round and feel for a split on the back/underside.

I did a wash of the engine so no evidence of black deposits anywhere that i can see
I did do the smoke test and worked too well until the container got so hot that the glue I had used to secure the hoses started to melt but again no evidence of smoke coming out anywhere so now thinking its not a cracked inlet manifold
Leaning towards a busted hose or pipe somewhere?
I compared the actions of the egr with a working D4 both the same, even the bypass turbo rod below the radiator so ruling them out for now
I did remove the top intercooler hose seems fine some rubbing evident but no hole
keep looking

Similar symptoms on my 05 D3 were caused by a cracked intercooler matrix. Check with a mirror on the unit below the radiator.