Of all the threads to necro, you had to pick a "which oil" thread!! [wink11]
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Of all the threads to necro, you had to pick a "which oil" thread!! [wink11]
not sure bout that, he is trained in some engineering discipline, but whichQuote:
Originally Posted by veebs
me
i have a few trades, machinist, diesel fitter and building alu yachts that require stretching and forming of up to 8mm plate, however even though, I wired em, did all the engineering, hydraulics ss rails, and other trades, I still hold him in the highest esteem
I am old, tired, and stuffed now, so maybe I forget that once I could have equaled him on engine rebuilds, I could never equal on electronics
I meant only in the sense he isn't advertising as being a trained automotive engineer, Land Rover tech, etc. That doesn't mean he isn't equal or better than many engnieers at understanding and resolving issue in these cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by stuarth44
I suspect his 'i'm no expert' position is also a safety for him - all care, but no responsibility for anything his viewers might do to their cars!
I'm looking to change to 5W40 in my 4.4 TDV8 due to a drastic reduction in oil pressure from idle right through the rev range within a few minutes of starting, even with new 5W30. Current contenders are Castrol Edge A3/B4 5W40 and Penrite HPR 5W40. Too many 4.4 SDV8s are failing with slipped bearings.
Edit: Decision made in favor of the Castrol oil due to Supercheap having both on sale that ends today.
Well, our crazy couple have bought another failed engine D4. Teardown vid is a few weeks away apparently. This one runs. After a fashion. So, maybe something different.
He did a bit of a walk around, pointing out some of the differences between model years. German market, of course. New car is the AdBlue version.
Seems Christian learned his machinist skills at his father's knee, so to speak.
My 4.4 TDV8 using Edge 5W40 now meets LR's paltry pressure specs for an engine that loves to operate between 1000 and 2000 rpm, with 12 psi at idle and 35 psi at 3000/3500 rpm, albeit at an oil temp around 90 degC after a short run, 25 degC above LR's oil temp of 65 degC. Penrite HPR 5W40 has slightly better typical 100 degC viscosity so might try that next time.
Before the rad replacement the oil temps were always 15-20deg hotter than the engine, now it seems they are from the same sensor,, they both sit on 92 regardless of well, anything really..
I once saw 121deg sump oil temp....
They seem a pretty common item,that is modern LRs with failed engines.[bigsad]Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
There is a mob in the UK that repair hundreds of them and have a good few vids around.
The company is called MDS.
Up to temperature but not pulling the heavy van...