Thread: Thought i had joined the broken crank club but NO!

Originally Posted by Bulletman

So has anyone actually pulled the heads on a failed engine .. either tensioner and /or crank failure and confirmed they are an interference engine... not that it really matters at this stage but it would certainly claify things..

Cheers Bulletman

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*yes, just like any half modern engine, its interference. You don't get the power outputs of a modern engine by having 2 feet of clearance between the valves and the pistons.
*both the 2.7 and 3.0 bend valves quite readily.
*I have had in engines that broke the tensioner bolt. The cause generally is a heavy handed monkey and re-using the old bolts.
*The tensioner bolts is one I use genuine, as bolts are hard enough to trace the origin of manufacture.
*yes the bolt should be marked 10.9

*Using a 1/2 drive torque wrench really isnt the tool for the job. a small 3/8 drive mid range pref digital torque wrench is what should be used.

If it was not an inference engine then heads/valves would not get damaged when the can belt fails.

Originally Posted by 101RRS

If it was not an inference engine then heads/valves would not get damaged when the can belt fails.

I fully understand that .. it was more that has it actually been confirmed that it does do it , or, was it just the general theory ..
Dazza set the record straight and thats good..

Bulletman

If you have the time and the inclination, remove the valve covers and check the rockers, cams and chains.
I was prepared to replace my engine but i stripped it down and checked all the gear then decided to re-assemble and see if it ran - done 32k since.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

If you have the time and the inclination, remove the valve covers and check the rockers, cams and chains.
I was prepared to replace my engine but i stripped it down and checked all the gear then decided to re-assemble and see if it ran - done 32k since.

Yep that is my plan.. will start to do the drivers side first as this seems to be the side that seems to have issues and will go from there..
I will pull the head if needed just to see whats what..

Cheers Bulletman

Originally Posted by Bulletman

Yep that is my plan.. will start to do the drivers side first as this seems to be the side that seems to have issues and will go from there..
I will pull the head if needed just to see whats what..

Cheers Bulletman

IMHO...

I would pull the starter motor, put another timing belt on it, time it up, wind it over by hand, see if anything kisses anything. go from there...

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

IMHO...

I would pull the starter motor, put another timing belt on it, time it up, wind it over by hand, see if anything kisses anything. go from there...

That was my original plan but the drivers side cam pulley has seperated from the rubber inner piece and it rotates very easily and looking down the oil filler i cant see the camshaft turning .. so i was planning on pulling that manifold and seeing if the cam chain has broken or what im faced with..
The passenger side turned and felt as tho it had the resistance i would have expected to operate valves. I have rotated it and the crank and both feel ok with no obvious feel of a dropped or damaged valve hitting anything.

Cheers Bulletman