That would make sense. If the high pressure side is bleeding out then it won’t fire the injectors - not until the pressure is high enough.
Fuel rail pressure at start is around 8000psi dropping to around 6000psi idling on my car as a guide.
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That would make sense. If the high pressure side is bleeding out then it won’t fire the injectors - not until the pressure is high enough.
Fuel rail pressure at start is around 8000psi dropping to around 6000psi idling on my car as a guide.
Manual says : "During starting, the fuel rail pressure must be at least 150 bar. Should the pressure be below this figure, the
injectors will not operate, resulting in the vehicle not starting."
That's 2175 PSI.
1300kPa is 13 Bar. The sensor is probably bottoming out at that (lack of) pressure.
Those lines are single use only, because like an olive union they're a crush fit. When I bought them in 2019 they were $55 each from an Indy. Yes I know in theory they can be re-used, but .....
Edit : Part Numbers :
LR004715 - Fuel Pipe
LR004714 - Fuel Pipe
did i not say in your priv msg to me that i have plenty of these clips?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulletman
far better people ask questions in the thread rather than contacting me directly...
Agreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
However it's nice to know someone has finally given Bulletman a decent clip... [bigwhistle]
Given that you state to be from 'McGowanstan' and that good ol Dazza has offered assistance in one way or another... Book it in and pay the bloke to solve your issue? He knows his ****.
Maybe i should have read the manual better , didnt realise steel injector pipes were single use only..
Thanks Brad for the part numbers and also thanks to Dazza for his offer of parts..
I have put in an order for new parts so hopefully that will solve my issues..
Cheers Bulletman
They can be reused but you risk a leak if you didn't put them back in order.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulletman
*If one uses some very fine emery paper round 1200 (or if u have courser, rub 2 pieces together) and clean the end of the pipe, then clean it all with some brake clean, diesel whatever the pipes wont leak.
*When you fit the pipes use a bit of lube, be it a small amount of grease or diesel.
some exceptions to the workshop rule is:
*Engines with internal injectors and internal pipes, use new pipes as you cant see a leak (internal as in internal to the cam/rocker/valve cover). (Hino / some Toyota engines)
*The Ford engines used in the Defender TDCi the pipes will rarely ever seal again and do require new pipes when doing the injectors.
P.S if one followed word for word everything said in a workshop manual then just about every bolt you ever undid you would have to replace.
Given the current prices for copper I would have "discarded" a fortune if I followed WS manuals scrupulously about copper washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
Hello I have a 2016 RR HSE TDV6 3.0 and I did the exact same thing fully rebuilt the engine. New Timing Belt, New cam timing chains, new lifters, new oil pump, New head gaskets. Changed the HPFP, installed it, and not firing. Seems like there is a fuel issue.
Starts with starter fluid, but backfires in the intake
Bled the fuel lines … Nothing
We checked the timing and it was 2 teeth off, adjusted and nothing.
Checked the Cam Sensors and we get rpm’s
One of the things we are currently thinking about is maybe the injectors were placed in the wrong locations
Does anyone have any idea what else we could check ?
After reading the other posts, does the TDV6 3.0 have the same fuel lines as the 2.7 TDV6.
Thanks in advance for your advice