Not firing after major work tdv6

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Originally Posted by Farrengui

Hello I have a 2016 RR HSE TDV6 3.0 and I did the exact same thing fully rebuilt the engine. New Timing Belt, New cam timing chains, new lifters, new oil pump, New head gaskets. Changed the HPFP, installed it, and not firing. Seems like there is a fuel issue.

Starts with starter fluid, but backfires in the intake

Bled the fuel lines … Nothing
We checked the timing and it was 2 teeth off, adjusted and nothing.
Checked the Cam Sensors and we get rpm’s

One of the things we are currently thinking about is maybe the injectors were placed in the wrong locations

Does anyone have any idea what else we could check ?

After reading the other posts, does the TDV6 3.0 have the same fuel lines as the 2.7 TDV6.


Thanks in advance for your advice

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My understanding is the 3.0ltr high press fuel pump needs to be timed to the engine so if you engine timing was out then maybe your new high press fuel pump has been mis-timed as well..

Im sure someone with more knowledge of the 3.0 ltr engine will clarify if im correct about the hpfp needing to be timed.

Good luck with it..

Cheers Bulletman

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Originally Posted by Farrengui

One of the things we are currently thinking about is maybe the injectors were placed in the wrong locations

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Care to elaborate on this comment? I'm confused!


And yes, the 3.0l HPFP timing needs to be set.

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Originally Posted by shack

Care to elaborate on this comment? I'm confused!


And yes, the 3.0l HPFP timing needs to be set.

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Pro'ly applies more to the injector wiring?

The 3L codes each injector to the ECU in each slot for optimum fuel efficiency. That said, it won’t stop it starting if the wrong coded ones are in the wrong spot etc. It may just not run as smoothly as expected.

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Originally Posted by Bulletman

My understanding is the 3.0ltr high press fuel pump needs to be timed to the engine so if you engine timing was out then maybe your new high press fuel pump has been mis-timed as well..

Im sure someone with more knowledge of the 3.0 ltr engine will clarify if im correct about the hpfp needing to be timed.

Good luck with it..

Cheers Bulletman

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Yes it needs to be timed, and it was timed correctly and confirmed to be functioning properly

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

The 3L codes each injector to the ECU in each slot for optimum fuel efficiency. That said, it won’t stop it starting if the wrong coded ones are in the wrong spot etc. It may just not run as smoothly as expected.

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That’s heartbreaking because that was my last hope … is there anything else I could check ? I just want to get it started to run on its own instead of running on starter fluid

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Originally Posted by Farrengui

That’s heartbreaking because that was my last hope … is there anything else I could check ? I just want to get it started to run on its own instead of running on starter fluid

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What fuel pressure do you have whilst it’s cranking? If it’s not high enough it won’t fire.

Hey guys thanks for the feedback, so here is an update, the fuel pressure is spot on to spec, the only issue now is the Crank Position Sensor. It may be a faulty sensor, or the shop that has it says that the Crank Position Sensor has to be “Indexed” which as I understand is gapping like spark plugs. Can someone comment if that is a real thing that can cause it not to start, incorrect crank position sensor gapping ? Does The transmission have to be dropped to correctly index it ? Thanks for the input

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Originally Posted by Farrengui

Hey guys thanks for the feedback, so here is an update, the fuel pressure is spot on to spec, the only issue now is the Crank Position Sensor. It may be a faulty sensor, or the shop that has it says that the Crank Position Sensor has to be “Indexed” which as I understand is gapping like spark plugs. Can someone comment if that is a real thing that can cause it not to start, incorrect crank position sensor gapping ? Does The transmission have to be dropped to correctly index it ? Thanks for the input

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*whomever rebuilt the engine did they fit the crankshaft tone ring in the correct spot?
*when setting the tone ring, you follow the fitting instructions in the workshop manual.
*the crankshaft sensor has a small retaining bolt, it can only go in a set position.
*to fit the tone ring you need to drop the auto.
*the sensor with enough other bits removed, front diff dropped down etc, can be removed/replaced without dropping the transmission.
*the HPFP while it is timed, wont stop it running or starting if the timing on it is out.
*injectors dont need to go back in the same spot.

mate did you get it sorted?