If the hose hasn't de-laminated and leaking thru the sides then i would try the gasket/oring first, haven't looked what access is like but might pay just to replace it instead of possibly doing the job twice.
Hi all, after some advice.
So I have a leak coming from the Turbo Oil Return/Drain Pipe. It's coming from the Oil Return pipe at the Engine Block.
Can I just replace the upper gasket and lower O-ring to hopefully stop oil leak?
Is it a difficult job?
I've been digging around in this forum and also other online sites, and have only been able to find info on 3ltr Diesels and D2's
I'm tempted to just follow the Workshop Manual to remove Turbo and stop pulling the car apart when I can get good access to The Turbo Oil Return Pipe.
Any info / guidance will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
If the hose hasn't de-laminated and leaking thru the sides then i would try the gasket/oring first, haven't looked what access is like but might pay just to replace it instead of possibly doing the job twice.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
The Turbo oil return/drain is a metal pipe, wouldn't think delamination would be a problem.
I think my problem will be access.
The pipe part # is LR004969. Approx $150aud
LR004969.jpg
The O'ring part # is LR006184. $5
LR006184.jpg
The Gasket part # is 1331076. $5
1331076.jpg
I think, I'd need the gasket anyway.
Can I get these parts from an Australian supplier? I'm struggling to find them in Australia.
o-ring can get anywhere, if the gasket is paper buy some gasket paper and rtv and make one - i assumed it would be a braided flexible hose like most are.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
The pipe is stainless and has a flexible section, they can fail there too. Most likely at the turbo flange, the bolts there are not that tight, with mine (3.0 SDV6SE) I found the bolts finger tight and the flange on the pipe had warped due to heat from the turbo.
Can't use paper gaskets, they will burn. Get the genuine green ones, Rova Craft in Perth or a reputable independent would have them, they are not dear from the UK though.
Access is fun, you need to double jointed and have the arms of a ballerina. Removing front LH wheel and all the heat shields allows slightly better access, getting up to the turbo oil outlet is the most fun.
Nearly forgot, there is an upgrade kit that includes a shorter hose and a blanking plate for the lower entry port into the block. The higher drain point allows oil from the turbo plain bearing to drain back to sump more easily, improves oil flow through the turbo and lowers back pressure up the pipe that can force oil out of the turbo bearing into the exhaust side. A tell tale for this is oil drops/mist out of the exhaust at idle. Ask me how I know....
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